ROSES 
16 
THE BERRYHILL NURSERY CO. 
An unsightly hole becomes a beautiful sunken garden — Photographed the first year after planting 
ROSE CULTURE 
Locate your plants properly — Prepare the soil carefully — 
Follow a few simple rules and you will be well rewarded 
There are many favorites in the garden, but none more so than the 
Rose. Contrary to the general idea, no flower is more easy to grow to 
perfection that the Rose if a few important facts are kept in mind. 
The kind of Roses one wishes to grow is largely a matter of personal 
preference. The Hybrid Perpetuals are those blooming with a great 
burst in June and some of them continue all summer. They are per- 
fectly hardy. The Hybrid Teas are also hardy and they bloom i)rofusely 
all summer, with an extra lot of flowers in October. The Teas are as a 
rule tender, but bloom continuously and the flowers are delightfully 
scented. Then there are the old-fashioned Bourbon Roses, the extra- 
hardy Rugosas. the wild or Prairie Roses and a multitude of Climbers 
and Trailers each with a distinctive charnj and fitness. 
First, always procure strong, vigorous plants. This is the very first 
step toward successful Rose-growing. In order to produce hardy stock, 
which will withstand the rigors and strains of our extreme climate, in 
.summer as well as in winter, it is absolutely nece.s.sary to have outdoor or 
field-f>rown plants. Even our pot-grown Roses have been grown one year 
in the field, potted in fall, wintered in a dormant state in coldframes and 
with the beginning of spring, they are cultivated on beds out in the 
open field. 
Second, the soil must not be too .sandy, yet loose and porous, with a 
goodly portion of humus and clay in its composition, and the bed must be 
dug deeply and well drained. 
The ideal Rose soil may be termed a sandy clay-loam, a soil of a rathei 
adhesive nature, yet sufficiently porous to permit a ready and free 
drainage of surplus water. Almost any good garden soil, however, can 
be. with proper care and treatment, made to produce the fine.st Roses. 
Where advisable, beds .should be trenched to a depth of 15 to 18 inches, 
providing for proper drainage in the bottom, turning the sod in next and 
adding Alphano Humus and fertilizer to the top-soil, mixing them 
thoroughly. 
Third, remember that Roses are gross feeders, and the soil can hardly 
be too rich for them. Alphano Humus applied several times during the 
season will be found vastly beneficial, and a liberal application of liquid 
manure will do wonders. The manure used for winter protection .should 
also be dug into the ground early in .spring. 
Fourth, the numerous insect enemies of the Rose must be kept in 
check by some of the various insecticides made for this purpose. A good 
spraj'er is a most essential implement for successful Rose-growing. 
Nicotine or tobacco juice is very effective against green flies and similar 
insects and Aphine is no doubt the easiest and most agreeable to handle 
and it certainly does the work. 
Fifth, contrary to the general opinion. Roses like plenty of water — not 
merely a .slight sprinkling, but a good, heavy soaking at least twice a 
week, preferably in the evening, and oftener in the case of protracted 
drought. 
A clean and properly spread mulch of well-decayed manure is by no 
means objectionable to the eye and of great value to the rose-bushes. It 
preserves moisture and protects the ground from the hot and piercing 
sun-rays in midsummer. It will also offset a great deal of troublesome 
weeding. 
Sixth, all Roses are benefited by winter protection, applied after the 
first good freeze, the object not being to keep them warm, but to pre- 
vent the alternate thawing and freezing so injurious to all sorts of vege- 
tation. This is especially important with the Tea and Hybrid Tea varie- 
ties and the Tree Roses. 
It is of vital importance that Rose-beds should be in the open, and not 
under big trees, although trees, bushes and fences may be in close prox- 
imity to Roses to good advantage, acting as a shelter or windbreak. 
ROSES 
We offer the be.st varieties of old-fashioned and the most up-to-date 
introductions. "BerryhiU” Roses are grown the most natural way, not 
forced artificially to make a salable, good-looking plant in the shortest 
time possible. They are hardy. 
HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES 
This class of Roses is at its best during the Rose month — June. But, 
with the help of a liberal treatment — cultivating, watering and slight 
cutting back after blooming — occasional flowers may be had all summer 
and most certainly in fall. Therefore, certain varieties are quite “per- 
petual.” 
Prices: Each 10 
Strong, field-grown plants $0 35 $3 00 
Extra-strong, field-grown and potted plants 50 4 50 
Alfred Colomb. Brilliant carmine; large, perfectly shaped. 
Anna de Diesbach. Carmine; large flower; fragrant. 
Baron de Bonstetten. Dark, velvety red; one of the darkest Roses. 
Baroness Rothschild. Rich satiny pink; a beautiful Rose. 
R. B. Cant. Deep crimson; vigorous and hardy. 
Captain Christy. Delicate fle.sh-color, rosy center; very fine. 
Captain Hayward. Bright scarlet-crimson; large; sweet; very dis- 
tinct. 
Clio. Klesh-color, shaded rosy in the center. 
Fisher Holmes. Deep red; perfect form; very fragrant. 
Frau Karl Druschki. Snowy white. The best white Rose in exist- 
ence. Large, perfect bloom; hardy, vigorous grower; perpetual bloomer. 
Genearl Jacqueminot. Brilliant crimson; very sweet. 
Francois Levet. Bright rose; large; early bloomer. 
La Reine. Rosy pink; fragrant; free bloomer. 
HEINRICH MUENCH. True rose-color; enormous bloom; hardy 
and vigorous. 
Margaret Dickson. White, pale pink center; very fine. 
Mrs. John Laing. Beautiful soft pink; perpetual bloomer. 
Oscar Cordel. Bright carmine; free bloomer; sweet and large. 
Paul Neyron. Deep rose-color; largest of all Roses. 
Ulrich Brunner. Rich crimson; large and fragrant. 
A mass planting of Roses makes a good ground cover 
