SMALL SAWMILLS, THEIK EQUIPMENT, ETC. 39 
wedge when he needs it. In doing this a gang cf sawyers loses more 
time each day than is represented by the cost of a set of good steel 
wedges. If not equipped with a maul, a sawyer will spoil a dollar 
ax in five minutes trying to drive steel wedges with it. Tying the 
wedges together with baling wire when not in use will prevent them 
from being lost. Each gang should have a flat bottle, easily carried 
in the hip pocket, to hold kerosene with which to spray the saw 
occasionally. 
CROSSCUT SAWS. 
Ordinarily a 6-foot saw is best adapted to the size of timber in the 
inter-mountain country. In some stands, however, a longer saw is 
necessary. The back of the saw is always somewhat thinner than 
the gauge of the teeth, and usually about two gauges heavier on the 
ends, which makes it stiffer and prevents "buckling" when the 
sawyer pushes a trifle on the back stroke. 
There are two kinds cf teeth, viz., the cutting teeth and rakers. 
Only the points of the cutters actually cut into the fiber : the rakers 
are meant to plane off the fiber severed by the cutting teeth and to 
drag the sawdust out of the cut. A curved saw will cut faster and 
with less exertion than a straight saw. 
A filer's outfit consists of a jointer, a raker tooth gauge, files, 
a raker swage, a set block, and a light hammer. In fitting a saw the 
teeth should first be jointed or made uniform in length. To do this 
place a 9-inch file in the jointer and, by means of the large screw, 
spring it to suit the curve of the saw and pass it lightly over the 
points of the teeth until it touches the shortest tooth. Then place 
the tooth gauge over the cleaner drag teeth and file them down to the 
gauge, afterwards filing them squarely across to a point as desired. 
If the saw requires setting, place the setting block on a log that 
has been leveled to receive it. then place the saw upon the setting 
block so that the point of the tooth to be set projects over the apex 
of the beveled surface fully one-fourth of an inch. Then give two or 
three strokes with a light hammer on the side of the tooth over the 
apex fully one-fourth inch from the point which will usually give 
the required set. Then move the tooth forward over the bevel or 
channelling block and strike it a sharp blow directly over the point. 
This will make a slight depression below the point of the tooth, 
which serves to keep the cutting edges flush, giving them greater 
cutting power and relieving the pressure on the back of the tooth. 
Regulate the set by gauging each tooth with the tooth gauge. Take 
the gauge in the left hand and place it against the side of the saw. 
The point on the short end indicates the least set, and the point on 
the leng end indicates a little more set. Experienced saw filers say 
that setting should never go lower than half the length of the tooth, 
