20 BULLETIN" 608, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 
a circular motion and cut the curd very fine — about the size of wheat kernels 
or smaller. 
After this stage is reached heating is commenced. In Switzerland until re- 
cently all the heating was done over an open fire, the kettle being swung on a 
large crane; most of the factories have the same method at the present time. 
In this country the same method was followed in the early days of the industry, 
but at the present time inclosed fireplaces, into which the kettle can be swung 
and doors closed to retain the heat, are largely employed. This takes away 
much of the discomfort of the operation. In a few instances the kettle is set 
in cement and an iron car containing the fire is run under it. The more modern 
factories use steam, which appears to be the most satisfactory way. When 
the heating is begun the contents of the kettle are brought rapidly to the de- 
sired temperature, which may be from 126° to 140° F., the higher temperature 
often being necessary to get the curd sufficiently firm. In the meanwhile the 
stirring continues for about one hour, with slight interruptions near the end of 
the process, when the curd has become so firm that it will not mat together. The 
end of the cooking is determined by the firmness of the curd, which is judged 
by matting a small cake with pressure by the hands and noting the ease with 
which the cake breaks when heating the edge. 
When the curd is sufficiently firm, the contents of the kettle are rotated rap- 
idly and allowed to come to a standstill as the momentum is lost. This brings 
all the curd into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle. One edge of a 
heavy linen cloth resembling burlap is wrapped around a piece of hoop iron, and 
by this means the cloth is slipped under the pile of curd. The mass of curd is 
then raised from the whey by means of a rope and pulley and lowered into a 
cheese hoop on the draining table. These hoops are from 4 to 6 inches deep and 
vary greatly in diameter. The cloth is folded over the cheese, a large follower 
is put on top, and the press is allowed to come down on the cheese. The press 
is usually a log swung at one end and operated by a double lever. Pressure is 
continued for the first time just long enough for the curd mass to retain its 
shape. The hoop is then removed, the cheese turned over, and a dry cloth sub- 
stituted. The cheese is allowed to remain in the press about 24 hours, during 
which time it is turned and a dry cloth substituted several times (six or more). 
At the end of the pressing, the curd should be a homogeneous mass without 
holes. The cheese is then removed to the salting board, covered with a layer of 
salt, and occasionally turned. In a day or two it is put into the salting tank in 
a brine strong enough to float an egg ; it remains there at the discretion of the 
cheesemaker for from one to four days. Often no brine tank is used with 
Emmental cheese. 
The cheese is then taken to the curing cellar. In the best factories two or 
more cellars with different temperatures are available, and the cheeses are 
placed in them according to the way the cheesemaker thinks their development 
requires. If it appears that the cheese may develop too fast and have too many 
and too large eyes, it is placed in a cool cellar ; if the reverse is true, a warm 
cellar is selected. The cellars vary in temperature from 55° to 65° F., though in 
extreme cases 70° F. or a little higher may be used. While the cheeses are in 
the ripening cellar, which in Switzerland may be from 6 to 10 months or longer, 
and in the United States three to six months, they should be turned and washed 
every other day for the first two or three months and less often subsequently, 
and at the same time a little coarse salt is sprinkled on the surface. In a 
few hours this salt has dissolved, and the brine is spread over the surface 
with a long-handled brush. 
The cheeses are very large, about 6 inches in thickness and sometimes as 
much as 4 feet in diameter, and weigh from 60 to 220 pounds. In shipping, a 
