THE REGAL LILY ts 
border and was not disturbed until 1924. In the six years it had split 
into three double-nosed bulbs and was still going strong. (Pl. 1, A.) 
Some of the first crop of seedlings from seed raised in 1918 are still 
_ being grown, but large bulbs have several times been removed from 
the lot. During last season the whole lot of bulbs of this progeny 
grown at Bellingham, Wash., measuring 5 to 9 inches in circumfer- 
ence, was closely scaled for further investigations, 
PESTS 
No pests of consequence have been encountered thus far in the 
culture of the Regal lily. Mention has been made of the inroads of 
the ubiquitous damping-off fungus in seedlings. This is controlled 
by care in watering and good aeration. Spraying with the recently 
developed mercurial compounds will assist. 
As is the case with many bulbous stocks, the pests are mostly man- 
made, but fortunately the Regal resists these also more effectively 
than most lilies. For instance, the lily rust (Uromyces lili Clint.), 
so destructive to the Madonna lily and the American lilies generally, 
seldom produces pustules on the Regal even when surrounded by a 
heavy infestation in other lies in close proximity. 
Diseased condition in the lily is frequently brought about, as has 
been pointed out, by improper handling. Any appreciable quantity 
of manure, even if well rotted, incorporated with the soil close to 
planting time or stagnant moisture over a dense impervious subsoil 
will be likely to produce an alarming diseased condition accompanied 
by an abundance of organisms such as the bulb mite, which assist in 
the progress of basal decay. The remedy is manifestly to correct the 
cultural conditions. 
Allowing the bulbs to heat in piles or in the pack or permitting too 
great desiccation also induces rotting which may be mistaken for 
parasitism. 
THE REGAL AS A FORCING LILY 
The essentials of the handling of this lily under glass so as to flower it 
at any stated period, particularly for Easter, can be told in few sen- 
tences. Its handling is simplicity itself, but there are as usual some 
requirements that must be met. 
The bulbs should remain out of doors until January 1. They 
should then be put on the benches in a temperature of 60° F. at 
night and should be kept at this temperature until they flower. They 
will begin to show top growth in 10 days and to develop tops and 
bottoms at the same time. No experience has been had in the forcing 
of bulbs grown at Bellingham, Wash., but Virginia-grown bulbs have 
been forced for a number of years, always with success when handled 
as directed above. | 
In the climate of Washington, D. C., it is preferable to leave the 
bulbs in the field until January 1. Occasionally there is a little delay 
caused by the ground being frozen, but it is seldom that digging 
can not be done some time between the middle of December and the 
middle of January. The bulbs are dug, potted up, and put imme- 
diately into a temperature of 60° F. at night. 
It is fully realized that in many locations it may not be practicable 
for obvious reasons to leave the bulbs undug until midwinter. 
