VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES 17 
Swiss cheese is made both with homemade rennet and with commercial rennet. 
When homemade rennet is employed usually no additional cultures are used. 
In some cases the homemade rennet is inoculated with a pure culture starter of 
lactobacilliis bulgaricus. With modern methods it has been found desirable to 
use the following pure cultures: (1) The lactobacilliis bulgaricus to check unde- 
sirable fermentation and to aid in controlling the ripening; (2) the use of an eye 
and flavor culture to aid in the development of eyes and flavor. These pure 
cultures are sent out by the Bureau of Dairy Industry of the United States 
Department of Agriculture or by State agencies. 
It has been found that by clarifying the milk a much better quality of cheese 
can be produced, both in regard to eye formation and in improving the body of 
the cheese. Clarification tends to reduce the number and to increase the size of 
the eyes. It is estimated that fully two-thirds of the factories of Wisconsin now 
clarify their milk for the manufacture of wheel and block Swiss. 
In making the cheese in Switzerland the evening's milk is skimmed; the morn- 
ing's milk is heated to 108° or 110° F., and the cream from the evening's milk 
is added and both thoroughly mixed. The evening's milk cooled with a little 
saffron to color it, is then added, and the whole is mixed. The milk is then 
brought to a temperature of 90° in summer and 95° in winter, and sufficient rennet 
is added to coagulate the milk in 30 or 40 minutes. The whole process is carried 
through in a huge copper kettle holding 300 gallons. The rennet used is obtained 
by soaking the calf's stomach in whey for 24 hours. When the milk has thickened 
to almost the desired point for cutting, which is practically the same as for ordi- 
nary American or Cheddar Cheese, the thin surface layer is scooped off and 
turned wrong side up. This is supposed to aid in incorporating the layer of 
cream into the cheese. The curd is then cut very coarse by means of a so-called 
harp. The cheesemaker, with a wooden scoop in each hand, then draws the 
mass of curd toward him, that lying on the bottom of the kettle being brought 
to the surface. At this point the cheesemaker and an assistant commence 
stirring the curd with the harp, a breaker having first been fitted to the inside 
of the kettle to interrupt the current of the whey and curd. The harps are given 
a circular motion and cut the curd very fine — about the size of wheat kernels. 
After this stage is reached heating is commenced. In Switzerland until re- 
cently all the heating was done over an open fire, the kettle being swung on a 
large crane; most of the factories have the same method at the present time. 
In this country the same method was followed in the early days of the industry, 
but at the present time inclosed fireplaces, into which the kettle can be swung 
and doors closed to retain the heat, are largely employed. This takes away 
much of the discomfort of the operation. In a few instances the kettle is set 
in cement and an iron car containing the fire is run under it. The most modern 
factories use steam, which appears to be the most satisfactory way. When 
the heating is begun the contents of the kettle are brought rapidly to the de- 
sired temperature, which may be from 126° to 140° F., the higher temperature 
often being necessary to get the curd sufficiently firm. In the meanwhile the 
stirring continues for about one hour, with slight interruptions near the end of 
the process, when the curd has become so firm that it will not mat together. The 
end of the cooking is determined by the firmness of the curd, which is judged 
by matting a small cake with pressure by the hands and noting the ease with 
which the cake breaks when heating the edge. 
When the curd is sufficiently firm, the contents of the kettle are rotated rap- 
idly and allowed to come to a standstill as the momentum is lost. This brings 
all the curd into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle. One edge of a 
heavy linen cloth resembling burlap is wrapped around a piece of hoop iron, and 
by this means the cloth is slipped under the pile of curd. The mass of curd is 
then raised from the whey by means of a rope and pulley and lowered into a 
cheese hoop on the draining table. These hoops are from 4 to 6 inches deep and 
vary greatly in diameter. The cloth is folded over the cheese, a large follower 
is put on top, and the press is allowed to come down on the cheese. The press 
is usually a log swung at one end and operated by a double lever. Pressure is 
continued for the first time just long enough for the curd mass to retain its 
shape. The hoop is then removed, the cheese turned over, and a dry cloth sub- 
stituted. The cheese is allowed to remain in the press about 24 hours, during 
which time it is turned and a dry cloth substituted six or more times. 
At the end of the pressing, the curd should be a homogeneous mass without 
holes. The cheese is then removed to the salting board, covered with a layer of 
salt, and occasionally turned. In a day or two it is put into the salting tank in 
a brine strong enough to float an egg; it remains there at the discretion of the 
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