VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES 47 
pressure is applied. After the cheese is removed from the form the surface dries 
and cracks and is easily slipped off; hence the name. It is an old variety, having 
been well know in the middle of the eighteenth century. 
SPALEN 
This is a type of Emmenthaler cheese and is sometimes known as Stringer. Its 
origin is unknown. It is made largely in the Canton of Unterwalden, Switzer- 
land, from whole or partly skimmed milk. The name is derived from the vessel 
in which the cheeses are transported and in which five or six of them are packed. 
This is a small cheese for an Emmenthaler type, each cheese weighing from 35 to 
40 pounds. 
No thermometer is used in the manufacture, the temperature being judged by 
the feeling, and a very uneven product is the result. The process of making 
seems to vary much, the press consisting of a board with stones for weights, and 
the temperature of the cellar being poorly regulated. 
SPITZ 
This a small rennet cheese made from cows' milk. The cheese is cylindrical 
in shape, being 4 inches high and 13^ inches in diameter. 
STEPPE3 
This name is applied to a Russian cheese made from whole milk. The milk 
after the addition of coloring matter is heated to about 90° F. and treated with 
sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 40 or 45 minutes. The curd is cut into large 
cubes, the whey removed slowly, and the curd still further broken up until the 
particles are uniformly about the size of peas. The curd is then heated gradually 
to 100° or 104° F., the mass meanwhile being gently agitated. After heating 
ceases, the stirring is kept up until the curd becomes dry, when it is placed in 
molds 10 by 53^ by 7 inches. After the cheeses are removed from the molds 
they are turned frequently and five hours later are salted and transferred to the 
curing cellar, where a temperature of about 55° F. is maintained. During the 
process of ripening the cheeses are worked occasionally with salt water and 
frequently turned. 
STILTON 
This is a hard, rennet cheese, the best of which is made from cows' milk to 
which a portion of cream has been added. It was first made near the village 
of Stilton, Huntingdonshire, England, about the middle of the eighteenth cen- 
tury. It is now made principally in Leicestershire and western Rutlandshire, 
though its manufacture has extended to other parts of England. Its manufac- 
ture has been tried, though without success, in the United States. The cheese is 
about 7 inches in diameter, 9 inches high, and weighs 12 or 15 pounds. It has 
a very characteristic wrinkled or ridged skin or rind, which is probably caused 
by the drying of molds and bacteria on the surface. When cut it shows blue 
or green portions of mold which give its characteristic piquant flavor. The 
cheese belongs to the same group as the Roquefort of France and the Gorgonzola 
of Italy. 
The morning's milk is put into a tin vat, the cream from the night's milk is 
added, and the whole is brought to a temperature of 80° F., when the rennet is 
added. It is claimed by some cheesemakers that the curd should be softer when 
broken up or cut than the curd for Cheddar cheese, whereas others believe that 
it should become very firm before it is disturbed, one or two hours being allowed 
for setting. When sufficiently firm, the curd is dipped into cloths which are 
placed in tin strainers. After draining for one hour, the cloths containing the 
curd are packed closely together in a large tub and allowed to remain for 12 hours, 
when they are again tightened and packed for 18 hours. The curd is ground up 
coarse, and salt is added, 1 pound to 60 pounds of curd. It is then put into tin 
hoops 8 inches in diameter and 10 inches deep. The cheeses remain in the hoops 
for six days, when they are bandaged for 12 days, or until they become firm, 
and are then placed in the curing room at 65° F. Ripened Stilton cheese of late 
is often ground up and put into jars holding from 1 to 2^ pounds. 
STRACCHINO 
This name is applied to several forms of soft cheeses made in Italy, the best 
known of which is Stracchino di Gorgonzola, described under the name of Gor- 
