32 
BULLETIN 540, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 
LESSON 80. 
Problem.—To draft the gown. 
Points to be brought out—Simplicity of the 
drafting and the 
advantage of adapting it to the individual figure. 
C ee 
Fic. 1.—Kimononightgown. Meas- 
urements: Length of front—from 
highest point of shoulder to floor; 
length of underarm seam; bust 
measure, loose. No drafting on 
paper is necessary. Material—at 
least a yard wide, and as long as 
twice length of front pius twice 
width ofhem. Foldin halfcross- 
wise (line AB): Fold in half 
lengthwise (line AC). Measure 
down from line AB to bust line 
(about 8inches). Draw DF par- 
allel to AB=one-fourth bust plus 
2 inches. HE (continuation of 
DF. FH=2 inches) forms sleeve 
seam. Bisect distancefromsleeve 
to bottom of material (point G). 
Draw linefrom F to G. Cut out 
triangle and use to piece out bot- 
tom (GKL), sewing straight sides 
together. Measure GL equal to 
underarm seam. Curve bottom. 
Draw neckas desired. Remember 
that the back of the neck should 
be 3 inches higher than the front. 
Reference—Any good book giving direc- 
tions for drafting underwear. 3 
Correlation.—Arithmetic: Keep accurate 
account of the time spent on drafting and 
making the different parts of the gown. 
LESSON 81. 
Problem.—To sew up the seams and hem 
the gown. 
Points to be brought out.—Neatness and care- 
ful machine work are essential for beautiful 
underwear. In the gown the French seam 
gives the neatest finish. This should be 
pinned and basted to msure evenness. After 
some practice the seaming may be accom- 
plished without the prelimimary basting, but 
this should not be allowed until a certain de- 
gree of proficiency has been attamed. The 
hem should be turned and basted, then 
stitched on the machine on the right side. 
Reference—Handy and Pract. Farm Libr. 
[Missouri],Mo.Bul.,13 (1915), No.2, pp.64-78. 
LESSON 82. 
Problem—To make cornstarch pudding. 
Substitute other forms of starch for the corn- 
starch and notice carefully any difference in 
the resulting flavor and consistency. Deter- 
mine whether or not flour could be used and 
how much would be necessary to give the 
desired consistency. 
Points to be brought out.—Cooking at thes 
temperature of boiling water aie: starch 
palatable, and probably shghtly more digest- 
ible. On this account the pudding is best 
cooked at least part of the time directly over 
the fire. The cooking may then be finished 
in the upper part of the double boiler, where stirring is unnecessary. 
References.—U. 8S. Dept. 
recipe book. 
Correlation.—English: 
as food. 
Agr., Office Expt. Stas. Bul. 202; a good 
Discuss the different sources of starch used 
