THE CHINESE JUJUBE. 17 
allow for the settling of the soil. The hole should be of sufficient 
width to allow the roots to retain their natural positions; long, 
straggling roots should be cut back to the same length as the main 
root system. 
PRUNING. 
There is little information concerning the proper method of 
pruning jujubes. Most of the trees that have been planted have 
received little or no pruning, but have been allowed to assume their 
natural habit, which is more or less upright. The recommendations 
given below are from recent observation and for a limited number 
of trees. They will probably require considerable modification after 
more experience has been gained. 
All the short, recurved side branches should be removed from the 
young trees as they come from the nursery, and the main stem should 
be headed back to a height of 24 to 30 inches above the ground. 
The second year about three or four branches should be selected for 
the framework of the tree, as with other deciduous fruits, and these 
should be cut back in order to make the tree spread. Where only 
one or two branches come out the first year they should be cut back 
in order to stimulate the development of others the second year and 
to prevent too much upward growth at the expense of lateral develop- 
ment. Thereafter, branches should be selected in such a way as to 
fill in and give the tree a good spread and keep it as symmetrical and 
well balanced as possible. In order to induce the tree to spread, it 
should be headed back to buds that are on the outside of the branch. 
When a branch is cut back, either the first or second bud below the 
cut (fig. 5. c) puts out new branches, and where the tree is vigorous 
both buds may grow. 
It is rather difficult to reshape old trees that have never been 
pruned. They should be cut back rather severely in order to force 
dormant buds lower down on the tree to send out new branches 
which can be selected in building up the new framework. Frequently 
when an old tree is cut back severely the first bud below the cut pro- 
duces a branch that grows straight up. and little is gained, but a 
second attempt sometimes overcomes this difficulty, and new branches 
appear lower down. 
The main object in pruning should be to force the tree to spread 
and form a low flat head, in order to keep the fruit as near the ground 
as possible, for convenience in picking. 
Meyer found that ringing, which in effect is a type of pruning, was 
practiced in connection with certain varieties in China. His notes on 
S. P. I. Xo. 35253 contain the following information : 
It is the custom in the Laoling district to ring the trees every year, just 
when the fruit is setting, by means of sawing through the bark of the trunk, 
starting the first ring a few inches above the ground and leaving a space of 
about three-fourths of an inch between the successive rings. They start the 
ringing when the trees are 6 or 7 years old and continue it for 20 to 30 years, 
after which time the tree generally dies and is removed. The reason for this 
ringing process is the fact that a tree which is ringed produces almost twice 
as much fruit as an unringed one, although the fruits of the latter are much 
sweeter. 
Thus far no noticeable effect has been produced by ringing this 
variety in this country. 
