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UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 
In Cooperation with 
Clemson Agricultural College, South Carolina 
DEPARTMENT BULLETIN No. 1488 
Washington, D. C. 
April, 1927 
MANUFACTURING TESTS OF COTTON OF THE WHITE GRADES OF THE 
UNIVERSAL STANDARDS FOR AMERICAN COTTON 
By Horace H. Willis, Cotton Technologist, Division of Cotton Marketing, 
Bureau of Agricultural Economics l 
CONTENTS 
Page 
Purpose of test 1 
Mechanical conditions.. 2 
Moisture conditions 2 
Percentages of waste 4 
Waste and cotton per 500-pound bale 6 
Strength of yarns 7 
Method of presentation of strength data 7 
22s gray warp yarn (skein) 8 
22s warp yarn, bleached and dyed (skein) ... 12 
22s warp yarn (single strand) 13 
28s two-ply yarn (single strand) 14 
Irregularity of yarns 15 
22s warp yarn (skein) 15 
28s two-ply yarn (single strand) 20 
Variation of the sizings 21 
D iff erence in value be tween grades 22 
Strength of cloth 24 
Manufacturing properties 25 
Finishing properties 26 
Summary 28 
PURPOSE OF TEST 
The spinning tests here described were conducted to determine 
the relative intrinsic value of each of the nine white grades of Ameri- 
can upland cotton as represented by the universal standards for 
American cotton. 2 
These standards, which became effective August 1, 1924, super- 
seded the former official cotton standards of the United States, tests of 
which are given in Department Bulletin 591, "Manufacturing Tests 
of the Official Cotton Standards for Grade." The results shown in 
this bulletin are based on the new standards for white grades. A 
thorough study of the manufacturing properties has been made, 
including waste, working qualities, strength, and bleaching and dyeing 
qualities of the yarn and of the cloth made from each of the nine 
grades. 
An effort has been made to correlate such factors as the price of the 
raw cotton, value of waste, and value of yarn to make the results of 
value to cotton growers, cotton factors, and manufacturers. 
1 The writer acknowledges the cooperation of the several managers of finishing plants, manufacturers, 
and cotton factors in these tests. The spinning tests were conducted under the general supervision of 
Arthur W. Palmer, in charge of Division of Cotton Marketing, and under the direct supervision of Horace 
H. Willis, cotton technologist, assisted by H. B. Richardson and C . E. Folk, assistant marketing economists; 
E. S. Cummings, assistant in cotton testing; and Miss Etta Zeh, assistant scientific aid. 
2 For a detailed description of the cotton standards, see Department Circular 278, "The Commercial 
Classification of American Cotton," by Arthur W. Palmer, and Service and Regulatory Announcements 
No. 92 (Agricultural Economics), "Standards for Cotton Classification in the United States and Abroad," 
by Chester L. Finch. 
33065°— 27- 
