24 
BULLETIN 1488, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 
If M= Market price of yarn of grade under consideration 
Then (M 3 — F 3 ) — (M 9 — Y 9 ) = Advantage of grade 3 over grade 9. 
The value of Y may be determined as follows: 
(CSXG)+(PXG) + (^') CMp+(l-Wp)[ (J^f) + (^)h]cMc- Vw 
Y= (0-T) (1-Wp) (1-Wc) (l-Ws) 1"^ 
Where F=cost of yarn per pound, 
CiS=cost per pound for storing and handling, 
G= gross weight of cotton, 
P= price of cotton (grade under consideration), 
!T=tare (bagging and ties), 
F= amount fed to machine per hour, 
p= pickers (used as subnotation) , 
CM — cost per machine hour (labor and overhead), 
W= percentage of waste removed expressed decimally, 
c= cards (used as subnotation), 
N = number of pounds fed between grindings of card, 
H= number of hours required for each grinding of card, 
Vw== value of waste and tare from G pounds of cotton, 
£=cost per pound subsequent to cards through spinning, 
s= processes subsequent to cards (subnotation for front waste). 
The value of the waste (Vw) is the sum of the values of the com- 
ponent parts — tare, picker motes, card motes and fly, card strips, 
and front or reusable waste. 
STRENGTH OF CLOTH 
Each grade of cotton was spun into 28s filling yarn and woven into 
a five-harness filling-effect sateen, using a high grade 40s two-ply 
untreated warp yarn. Portions of this cloth were bleached; portions 
were bleached and mercerized ; and other portions were bleached, mer- 
cerized and dyed by different finishing plants. The cloth was tested 
65 
60 
55 
50 
\A^~ Gray 
^r 
\ ^ 
• 
\ 
• 
\ 
\ 
/ 
• 
/ 
• 
/ 
\ \ 
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1/ ^B,e 
ached 
u 
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98765432 1 
GRADE NUMBERS 
Jig. 14. — Effect of bleaching on the strength of the eastern cloth. Bleaching tends to weaken the cloth 
fillingwise, using a 1-inch strip with the jaws of the machine set 3 
inches apart. Five observations were made of each finish — gray, 
bleached, dyed, and mercerized. The resultant average of the five 
observations of each treatment is denoted by the intersection of the 
slope line with the vertical line representing the grade of cotton (figs. 
14, 15, 16, and 17.) 
