STREET TREES. 51 
should be the removal of such branches as can be spared. If enough 
buds can not be removed in this way without leaving the head too 
open, then the shortening of the branches must follow. It is usually 
necessary to remove three-fourths of the limbs to accomplish this. 
An expert can do this pruning or most of it more easily before the 
tree is planted than afterwards. Some additional pruning may be 
necessary after the tree is set. 
In addition to the pruning of the top the roots may need some 
cutting. Any broken pieces or ends should be removed, making a 
clean cut with a sharp knife, as new rootlets put out more readily 
from a cleanly cut fresh surface than from ragged breaks. If the 
roots are very long, without branches or rootlets, it sometimes makes 
panting easier to cut off some of the ends. As roots are the braces 
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Fic. 36.—Types of tree guards. P20372HP 
by which a tree is supported in the ground, it is undesirable to 
reduce their length unless some positive good is to be gained by it. 
The best implement for cutting small limbs is a sharp knife, and 
for larger limbs a fine-toothed saw. Pruning shears are sometimes 
used, but they are likely to bruise the wood. If used at all, the 
blade should always be turned toward the tree so that the bruise 
made by the supporting bar will be on the portion cut off. Where 
branches are taken off, the cut should be close to the remaining 
limb, so that no suggestion of a stub willremain. (Figs. 34 and 35.) 
Where ends are cut from branches the cut should be just above a 
bud, and the remaining bud should point in the direction that it is 
desired the limb should grow. 
STAKES AND GUARDS. 
Under city conditions young trees need the support of a strong 
stake as well as protection for the trunk. Boys like to swing around 
small trees or see the tops fly up if bent to the ground. Men find 
them convenient hitching posts for their horses, and horses frequently 
