VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES 35 
seed. It is made with 5 per cent of salt and after drying is put into salt whey 
for a time. It is then packed in kegs and ripened for 8 or 10 weeks. In all 
other respects the manufacture is identical with that of hand cheese. 
OSSETIN 
This cheese is made in the Caucasus from sheep’s or cows’ milk, the best being 
made from the former. The fresh, warm milk is set with rennet in sufficient 
quantity to coagulate quickly. The curd is broken up with the hand and is cooked 
until it has the proper degree of firmness, after which it is kneaded together and 
the whey removed. It is then put into round forms, sprinkled with salt, and 
allowed to remain for two days. The cheese then goes into brine, where it may 
be kept for a year, or even longer. A softer, milder cheese is produced by leaving 
it in the brine for two months. 
Tuschinsk and Kasach are other names for Ossetin. 
OSTIEPEK 
This is a sheep’s-milk cheese made in the Carpathian Mountains. The proc- 
‘ess of manufacture is said to be the same as that used by the Italians in making 
the better known Caciocavallo. 
OVCIJI SIR 
This is a sheep’s-milk cheese made in the Slovenian Alps. Morning’s milk is 
mixed with evening’s milk in a kettle holding about 50 liters and warmed to 
from 86° to 95° F. over an open fire. A sufficient quantity of rennet obtained 
from a kid’s stomach is added to coagulate the milk in about 30 minutes. The 
curd is broken up and heated to 122° F., drained for an hour in a rack, and placed 
in a wooden vessel or hoop. Salt is rubbed on the surface of the cheese each 
day for a week. The cheese is ripened for three months in a cellar and when 
ready for sale weighs from 6 to 10 pounds. 
PAGLiA 
This is a more or less successful imitation of Gorgonzola cheese. It is made 
in the Canton of Ticino, Switzerland. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches 
in thickness. The milk is set at a temperature of 100° F., the time allowed being 
about 15 minutes. The curd is broken up, stirred, and put into hoops. When 
sufficiently drained the cheese is taken to a cool cellar and placed on straw, where 
fermentation is usually very rapid and marked. The process is delayed to some 
extent by excessive salting, which is continued for about a month. The cheese 
is very soft in consistency and has a pleasant, aromatic flavor. 
PAGO 
This is a rennet cheese made from sheep’s milk in the island of Pago, in the 
Province of Dalmatia, Austria. It is put up in sizes weighing from one-half to 
8 pounds. 
P? ARENCIA 
This is a sheep’s-milk cheese made in Hungary. The process of manufacture is 
similar to that used in making Caciocavallo. 
PARMESAN 
Outside of Italy this name is in common use for the cheese made and known 
in that country for centuries as Grana, the term “grana”’ or “granona’’ referring 
to its granular appearance when broken, which is necessary on account of the 
hardness of the cheese, cutting being practically impossible. There are two quite 
distinct kinds of this cheese—one made in Lombardy and the other in Emilia, 
the centers of production being separated by the River Po. Parma, situated in 
Emilia, has long been an important commercial center for both kinds, and to this 
fact the name Parmesan is due. The use of the term ‘‘ Parmesan,’’ however, is 
sometimes restricted to the cheese made in Lombardy, the term “ Reggian”’ being 
used to designate that made in Emilia. Italian writers refer usually to the Lom- 
bardy cheese as Cacio or Formaggio Grana Lodigiano, Lodi being an important 
center of trade, and to the Emilian cheese as Grana Parmigiano or Reggiano. 
- The Lodi cheese is larger and made from a poorer quality of-milk then the Reggian, © 
which is colored and brings a much higher price. The following description of 
the process of manufacture applies to both kinds: 
