46 
SCENES IN INDIA. 
extraordinary military talents, combined with the 
steady courage of the British grenadiers, preserved the 
city from falling into the hands of the French. We 
stayed here but one night, and on the following morn- 
ing proceeded towards Salem, a small town about 
sixty miles to the north-east, at which we arrived 
after a rather active march of two days. 
This is a most remarkable neighbourhood ; it 
abounds almost as much as Mahabalipuram with 
those amazing monuments of art so profusely scat- 
tered over the vast peninsula of the east. The morn- 
ing after our arrival at Salem we moved onwards to 
Tritchengur, about two or three miles to the south- 
west. Here are two very celebrated temples ; the 
principal, however, though more sacred, is much the 
least splendid: this we visited first. It is situated 
on the summit of a lofty hill, which we ascended 
with some labour, passing through a great number 
of highly-ornamented choultries.* The architecture 
of this edifice, though by no means deficient in or- 
nament, is perfectly simple, but at the same time 
massy and imposing ; its strength is sufficiently 
confirmed by the number of generations which it 
has stood uninjured in such an exposed situation ; 
still towering in venerable majesty upon the height. 
* Choultries are buildings open on every side, for the accom- 
modation of travellers ; the roof is supported by columns, which 
are sometimes highly ornamented : these are Hindoo structures. 
The serai is a Mahomedan building for the same purpose ; it 
consists of a large open area enclosed by high walls, in which 
are a number of recesses. The serai has no architectural orna- 
ment, except on the gateways. 
