4 
BARR’S Gold Medal Daffodils, 1898. 
the acre, or about foz. to the square yard. The potash not only increases the depth of colour in the 
flowers, but also helps to hold the moisture in the soil, a condition so essential to the perfect development 
of the Daffodil. 
In Early Spring, as soon as the Daffodils begin to show above ground, the surface soil should be 
well broken with a hoe, to sweeten it after the heavy winter rains. 
TIME OF PLANTING AND LIFTING. — The best time to plant to obtain the finest flowers 
is September, although bulbs may be planted as late as Christmas with"very satisfactory results. They 
may be left undisturbed for three years in ordinary good loamy soils, but on poor and light soils they are 
better lifted every two years, as soon as the foliage has died down, and replanted as early as is convenient. 
Depth to Plant. — The average depth to plant is from 2 to 3 inches, that is to say, a covering* of two 
to three inches of soil, but not more. As the bulbs vary considerably in size, according to the relative 
varieties, the best rule to go by is the bulb itself, which should be covered with soil once and a half its own 
depth , measuring the bulb from the collar of its neck to its actual base. 
Position and Grouping for best Effect.— All Daffodils prefer partial shade, although most of 
them will grow equally well in the open. The varieties which are best grown in partial shade are 
indicated in the following pages by an *. In grouping in the flower border to obtain the best effect, they 
should be massed together in as large and as irregularly shaped groups as possible, avoiding straight lines 
or circular and symmetrical clumps. Masses of Daffodils should always appear in the Hardy Flower border, 
where irregular and effective sweeps can be planted between the clumps of herbaceous plants which in 
their turn grow up and hide as well as shelter the Daffodil foliage while it is going to rest. In grouping, 
the season of flowering should be borne in mind, as the varieties bloom in succession from the end or 
February to the end of May, during which period a constant succession of flower is obtainable by a 
judicious arrangement. In the following pages we denote the rotation of blooming, thus : (1) = 1st early ; 
(2) - 2nd early ; (3) = mid-season ; (4) = the latest blooming. 
Varieties specially Suitable for Naturalising in Grass, Woodlands, &c. — These are all free 
seeders, and will therefore spread naturally ; they are mostly natural hybrids — Abscissus, Achilles, Countess of 
Annesley, Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Obvallaris, Spurius, Thomas Moore, Cambricus, Camoens, 
English Lent Lily, Princeps, Variiformis, Albicans, Pallidus Praecox, Moschatus of Haworth (very pretty 
in grass), and l’oeticus of the Pyrenees. The Varieties underlined we do not recommend for the 
cultivated border, as they deteriorate the second year, while in grass or meadowland they flourish. 
Hints on Naturalising in Grass. — All daffodils may be planted in grass with perfect success. 
To produce the best effect the three groups should be kept separate : thus the Star Narcissi should not 
be mixed with the Great Trumpets, nor the Poet’s Narcissi with the Star Narcissi. In arranging, make 
the breaks large and bold, scattering the bulbs over the ground broadcast with the hand, and dibbling 
into the ground where they fall. Avoid symmetrical lines or formal circles as far as possible, as these, are’ 
never found in nature. 
Method of Planting in Grass. — Take a stout wooden dibber with a strong tread; make the 
hole in the ground about six or seven inches deep, and fill up with a good mixture of prepared soil consisting 
of two-thirds loam and one-third old leaf soil ; into this press the bulb, and cover up the hole with same 
compost ; this will give the bulbs a fair start, and success is sure to follow. In planting under trees, avoid 
places where the drip from the leaves &c. is greatest, also where the main roots come close to the surface. 
CULTURE IRC OCRS IN POTS , &<a. 
Of the stronger growing sorts use three to six bulbs, according to size of bulb for a 4J to 6-in. pot; of 
the small growing kinds such as N. Minimus, Nanus, Minor, Cyclamineus, Triandrus, Juncifolius, and 
Corbulariasuse twelve to eighteen bulbs for a 4 J to 6-inch pot. These small-flowered dwarf-growing species 
are most charming in pots or little shallow pans. The following may easily be had in bloom in January— 
N. minimus, minor, nanus, and Cyclamineus, and these may be mingled with Chionodoxas, as both 
bloom at the same period and produce a charming contrast. The White Hoop Petticoat Narcissus 
should be potted in almost pure sand kept well moist, and may be had in bloom shortly after Christmas. 
(See Rock Garden Collection of Daffodils, page 7.) 
If Daffodils are wanted in quantity for cutting early in the season, plant thickly in boxes five to six 
inches deep, and only just cover the bulbs with soil, using ordinary potting soil. The pots ot boxes should 
then be placed out of doors on a firm bottom such as a bed of ashes or a gravel path and be covered with six 
inches of ashes or cocoa-nut fibre. When the bulbs have filled the pots or boxes with roots and made an 
inch or two of top growth, portions should be removed indoors in succession, selecting first those which 
flower naturally early. They should be first placed in a cold frame or cool greenhouse and then shifted to 
a slow forcing house when they should have abundance of water and plenty of air. The plants should be 
kept as near to the glass as possible, and not allowed to get drawn from an insufficient supply of light or air. 
