r . ]■ nr | inp For Spring or early Summer crop sow in March or early in April in hot-bed and 
1 transplant to cold frame when sufficiently large, and to the open ground as 
soon as danger of hard freezing is over. The plants will endure a light frost. The soil for cauli- 
flower should he like that for cabbage, but it is better if made richer than is ordinarily used for that 
crop Give the plants thorough culture and keep free from worms with Persian insect powder. For 
late crop sow at same time as for late cabbage and treat in the same manner. It should be borne in 
mind that cauliflower will not head up well in hot dry weather and hence the sowings should be so 
regulated as to bring it to maturity either before the hot dry summer weather sets in or not until 
the cooler weather of Fall. If it receives at this time a liberal supply of water, the size and quality 
of the heads will be greatly improved. After the heads begin to form, draw the leaves over and 
pin or tie them together to protect the head f-om the sun and keep it white. The heads should be 
cut for use while the “curd” is compact and hard, as they soon become tough and bitter after they 
open an separate into branches. 
most popular sort for these purposes. 
It is also one of the best sorts for late 
lummer and fall crop and with reason- 
ably favorable conditions every plant will 
form a large solid head of fine quality. 
The plants are compact with few narrow, 
upright leaves and are well suited for close 
planting. The heads are solid, compact, 
round, very white and curd like and are 
developed earlier than those of any other sort. 
We know our stock of this variety is 
unsurpassed and is superior to much that 
is sold under such names as “Gilt Edge” 
“Earliest,” etc., etc. 
Our cauliflower seed is produced by the 
most experienced growers in Europe, in such 
localities as are best suited to its proper 
development, and the greatest care is taken to 
save seed from perfectly developed plants only. 
Cauliflower 
Early 
Snowball 
Admirably adapted for 
forcing or wintering over 
for early crop and the 
T> 1 While not quite so 
Early ravorite 
early, exceedingly hardy, easily grown and by far 
the best sort for the inexperienced grower, as it will 
head under conditions in which many sorts would 
fail. The plants are large and form large heads 
which are solid, crisp, tender, of fine quality. It 
keeps in condition for use a long time. Several 
years’ experience has convinced us that it is 
one of the hardiest kinds in cultivation. We 
urge you to try it. Packet 10c. 
Calhoun Co., Mich. 
The seeds that I sold for you last year 
gave good satisfaction, and the parties who 
bought will be our future customers. I expect 
to sell every one of them their seeds for 
this year. 
F. M. THAYER. 
EARLY SNOWBALL CAULIFLOWER 
CULTURE Sow the seed (which is slow to germinate) 
in shallow boxes, or in a finely prepared 
seed bed out of doors, in straight rows, so that the small plants 
may be kept free from weeds. See to it that the seed is not 
covered too deep, and that the bed is kept moist, almost wet, 
until the seeds germinate, as plenty of moisture is essential to 
get a satisfactory growth. When about two inches high, thin out and transplant, so that they may stand three inches apart, and 
when the plants are four inches high, cut off the tops, which will cause them to grow stocky. The crop is usually made to 
succeed some earlier one; but in order to grow good celery the soil must be made as rich as possible, the essentials to success being 
very rich soil and plenty of water. If good plants are used they may be set out as late as the middle of August, but the best results 
are usually obtained from setting about the middle of June or the first of July. The most desirable time will depend upon local 
climate and is that which will bring the plants to maturity during cool, moist weather. In setting, prepare broad, shallow trenches 
about 6 inches deep and 4 feet apart in which the plants should be set 6 inches apart, cutting off the outer leaves and pressing the 
soil firmly about the roots. When the plants are nearly full grown they should be “handled'’ which is done by one man gathering 
the leaves together, while a second draws the earth about the plant to one-third its height, taking care that none of the earth falls 
between the leaves, as it would be likely to cause them to rust or rot. After a few days draw more earth about them and repeat 
the process every few days, until only the tops of the leaves are visible. Or it may be blanched by pressing the leaves together with 
two wide boards held in place by stakes. This is the method commonly used by market gardeners, but celery so blanched is' more 
likely to become pithy than that blanched with earth. Care should be taken that the plants are not disturbed while they are wet or 
the ground is damp, as it would be sure to injure them. A part of the crop may be simply “handled, “ and then at the approach of 
severe freezing weather taken up and set out compactly in a dark.cellar or an unused cold frame which can be kept just above the 
freezing point, and then it will gradually blanch, so that it may be used through the winter. Should the plants begin to wilt, water 
the roots without wetting the stalks or leaves, and they will revive again. 
Celery is sometimes grown by what is termed the new process, which consists in making a spot as rich as possible, and there 
setting the plants 6 to 8 inches apart each way. If the soil is very rich and there is an abundance of water, the plants will blanch 
each other, and th e product will be very white and handsome, but we think it is inferior in quality to that grown by the old method. 
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