SPINNING THE COCOON* 11 
Spinning the Cocoon. 
JGHT or ten days after the last molt, the worm pre- 
pares to spin its cocoon. It changes from white, to a 
cream or amber color, is almost transparent and 
]£P shrinks in size, the head becoming much smaller. It 
moves uneasily about, eats but little, and evacuates more freely* 
It now begins to throw out silken threads. When these 
indications are noticed such worms should be moved to a 
separate tray, and conveniences arranged for spinning. Some 
will spin in the corners of the trays, or in small pieces of 
paper twisted into cones. Others will want to ascend, For 
these, branches may be set up on the outside of the trays, 
interlacing at the top, and mosquito netting laid loosely 
over. The worms will find their way into this and spin 
in the folds. When there is a sufficiency of trays, two of 
these, with spaces between large enough to accommodate 
the worms, may be set up endwise near them. They will 
soon find them, climb up between, and form cocoons. Any 
other device which may suggest itself to the raiser can be 
adopted. 
The worms will soon begin to weave silk threads back 
and forth, making an enclosure in which is made the cocoon 
proper. The silk flows more freely in a warm atmosphere: 
It takes from three to four days to form the cocoon, and 
three more are required for the worm to pass into the chrys- 
alis state. The cocoon should not be removed short of eight 
days for reeling or stifling, while if required for eggs it 
must remain ten or twelve days after the worm has begun to 
spin. Care must be taken that no two worms form their 
cocoons too close together, making what is called a double 
cocoon, which would render them worthless for reeling, 
although just as good for seed. The cocoon consists of a 
continuous thread, generally about four hundred yards long. 
After commencing to spin, the worms will require no food ; 
but as all will not begin at the same time, those that are 
tardy should, be fed often but in small quantities. The 
temperature of the cocoonery should be kept as even as 
possible, at from seventy-five to eighty degrees. If it falls 
below seventy-five degrees it should be raised by artificial 
heat. If it exceed eighty-five degrees it may be reduced 
by increased ventilation, mopping the floor, or sprinkling 
water around the outside of the cocoon ery. 
