CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA. 
The Camellia has been in this country nearly a century, being- introduced from 
China in 1739 ; and, although it is justly esteemed as one of the most beautiful 
plants in cultivation, the means necessary to be used, in order that it may flower to 
perfection, are so very little known, that we feel a pleasure in being- able to lay down 
a few definite rules, from our own observation. 
1. Potting. Always perform the operation of potting immediately after the 
plants have done flowering, which will be about the end of March. 
2. At the time of potting never use a knife to trim off the roots ; if they are 
matted, merely break off the matted parts with the hand, disturbing the ball as little 
as possible. If not matted, place them carefully in another pot of new soil, without 
disturbing the roots at all. 
3. Good drainage is indispensable ; no plant will thrive long unless this be 
attended to. This may be obtained by laying plenty of broken crocks, or cinders, 
at the bottom of each pot, previous to putting in the soil. 
4. The soil in which they appear to grow and flower with the greatest freedom 
is composed of the following ingredients : — To one barrowful of rich hazel loam, add 
one-third of a barrowful of fine sand, half a barrowful of peat, and half a barrowful 
of leaf mould or very rotten dung. Never at any time, even for small plants, sift 
the soil, but chop and mix it well with a spade till it is broken fine. 
5. Temperature. When potted, sprinkle them with a little water, and place 
them in a house where the temperature is from 65 to 70 degrees Fahr. by day, and 
55 to 60 by night. This heat is far preferable to a greater during their time of 
growth, as too much heat, at that period, has a tendency to render the growing 
shoots both weakly and short. 
6. As soon as the young shoots have done growing, which is easily perceived, 
raise the heat to 80 or 85 degrees by day, and 70 or 75 degrees by night. This 
increase of heat enables the plants to form their flower-buds with greater facility, 
strength, and quantity. This increase of heat must always be applied immediately 
after the plants have perfected their shoots ; for if delayed until the wood has become 
hard, the desired abundance of blossom buds is not attained. 
7. When they have completely set their flower-buds, which will be in about 
three weeks after they have been subjected to the increased temperature, gradually 
decrease the heat until the end of June, when they may be set out of doors. 
8. Summer quarters. When placed out of doors at the end of June, always 
select rather a shady situation ; for if placed where fully exposed to the sun, the 
leaves are not only liable to be blotched and unsightly, but the plants are apt to 
push their buds prematurely into flower. 
9. It is indispensable that every pot be kept free from worms. The safest way 
of preventing their entrance is to place the pots either on boards, or to put a piece 
of slate under each. If, however, any worms do effect an entrance, as soon as it is 
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VOL. I. NO. II. 
