144 
ON THE CULTURE OF ROSES. 
of the sap, take off the head of the stock at the proposed height, bending it, so that 
the plant designed to form the head is brought close to the top of the stock. Pare 
from the stem two or three inches of the bark, with a portion of the wood, at the 
most convenient part for forming the junction ; after which the stock is neatly- 
made to correspond, and in such a manner that the part where the union is intended 
to take place is very little increased in size. Tonguing may be avoided, since it 
offers no advantage. They should be bound together with tape or good bass mat- 
ting, and be covered with a little moss, which should be kept damp. Should the 
stock be very tall or weakly, the union of the parts would be strengthened and 
accelerated by making a small slit in the stock, and causing it to dip in the ground, 
or in a pot of earth placed for the purpose. Roots will be protruded at the slit, 
which will support the head considerably : and as the slit will heal, the roots may 
be pared off when the head and stock are united, and the place where they grew will 
scarcely be discernible*. 
40. Pruning. The chief art of pruning consists in retaining certain branches to 
form a regular head ; and in cutting those so as to effect that purpose, and, at the 
same time, cause them to throw out supplies of young wood. In the last week in 
February, or the first week in March, let every branch be shortened according to its 
strength, and cut out as much old wood as possible without disfiguring the tree. 
The young shoots of the preceding year, which are intended to produce flowers, 
should be pruned to about two or three eyes. 
The following may probably be accounted the best hardy roses for training 
against a wall : — 
BLUSH. 
Ross ruga 
Boursoulti 
Russeliana 
Banksia multiplex 
Rosa hyacinthina 
Longii 
Grevillii 
Roxburghi 
Nivea 
Multiflora platyphylla 
Noisette varieties. 
The R. Boursoulti, Roxburghi, hyacinthina, and Grevillii, require a good warm 
situation, or they will not flower to perfection. 
41 . To retard the blooming season. Leave the trees unpruned until the extreme 
buds of the previous year’s shoots have pushed half an inch long ; then cut them in 
below where any bud has pushed, and the dormant buds on the lower part of each 
shoot will be excited, and produce flowers in August and September. Shortening 
the shoots so late in the spring, does not in the least weaken the trees : they 
blossom as vigorously and freely as in the usual mode of treatment. 
42. Forcing. The sorts most to be recommended for forcing, are the Red 
Provence, Moss Provence, and White Provence, for the first flowering; and the 
Tuscany Damask, and Lady’s Blush, for later flowering. 
Mr. Cameron, in Hart. Regi&ter, vol. ii. p. 400. 
