ON THE CULTURE OF ROSES. 
145 
43. Take up strong suckers or layers at the end of October or beginning of 
November, and plant them in pots about five inches diameter, inside measure 
(upright forty- eights), filled with a good rich light loam, mixed with a small por- 
tion of vegetable mould, or well rotted dung. 
44. In potting be careful to insert the lower part of the plant rather deeper than 
it grew ; to accomplish this in pots of so small a size, it will be necessary in many 
cases to coil it round the pot two or three times. The next time of potting, place 
them in larger pots, and continue to do so every year until they are eventually placed 
in pots one foot diameter inside measure (twenty-fours), which is the largest size 
they ought ever to be allowed to stand in. 
45. When potted for the first time, prune the tops so as not to leave above two 
or three buds above the soil ; but at all the succeeding pottings prune them in the 
same way as those growing in the open borders. 
46. When potted and pruned, plunge the pots up to the rim in an open airy 
situation, where they should be allowed to stand for one year. 
47. When the plants have been potted about a year, introduce a quantity of 
them into the stove, and place them in a situation where they will receive about the 
heat of from seventy to eighty degrees by day, and sixty to seventy by night. 
48. The times proper to take them in are as follow : — early in October for 
producing flowers about Christmas, in November for blooming in February, and so 
on every month, until the natural season for flowering in the open air. 
49. As those plants first introduced into the house will be more easily excited 
the following year than those brought in later, it is advantageous to mark every lot 
as they are taken in, so that they may be started, in the same order as at first, every 
succeeding year. 
50. During the time of forcing give a good supply of water at the roots, and 
water with a rose, or syringe them over the head, three times a week, when the 
weather is fine. 
51. Be careful to smoke the house every month to destroy the Aphidce, and 
pick off all grubs curled up in the leaves, or the crop of flowers most probably 
will fail. 
52. After they have done flowering, allow them to remain either in a frame or 
greenhouse for two or three months, until their wood is a little mature, for if they 
are too suddenly exposed to the open air whilst the wood is tender (a method 
practised by many persons), they receive so severe a check, that they seldom or 
never mature their buds, so as to flower well the succeeding season. 
53. Whilst they are making their wood, give them a good supply of water mixed 
with a little dung of either deer, sheep, fowls, or pigeons ; this will replenish the 
soil, and greatly assist the plant. When they have partly done growing, turn 
them out of doors, placing them in a sheltered situation, and at the proper season, 
prune, pot, and introduce them into the house in rotation, as before. 
54. Insects and Diseases. The rose is much infested with insects, particularly 
the rose plant louse ( Aphis roses'), which, however, may be easily destroyed by 
fumigation with tobacco, if the trees are in a house ; and by making a solution of 
quick lime, soot, and water, of about the proportions of one peck of each to ten 
