198 
SCENES IN INDIA. 
comparatively deserted. It has ceased to be the 
capital of a district as formerly, its lands being at- 
tached to the adjacent provinces of Mizapoor and 
Benares. The fortifications have been suffered to 
decay, and from neglect the place is rapidly subsiding 
into a state of venerable ruin. The inhabitants are 
generally poor, and commonly bear that sickly hue 
of disease which betokens exposure to unwholesome 
malaria, and to an enervating climate. 
The fortress of Chunar, or what remains of it, for 
it is now in a state of miserable dilapidation, is situated 
upon a lofty freestone rock, several hundred feet high, 
rising abruptly from the dead flat beneath, and com- 
manding an extensive view of the Gangetic plain. It 
forms a complete promontory, stretching to a consider- 
able distance into the river, which, when its channel 
is full during the monsoons, rushes round this in- 
truding headland with fearful impetuosity. Chunar 
Ghur was formerly celebrated for the strength of its 
fortifications ; walls protected by strong towers rising 
one behind another, and covering the citadel with an 
impregnable array of ramparts, which were manned 
by a numerous garrison. Even now the batteries are 
sufficiently formidable, completely commanding the 
navigation of the river ; and no boat is allowed to 
pass up or down without examination from an officer 
stationed there for that purpose. 
The modern town is composed of low native huts 
and European bungalos, placed without order and 
exhibiting the most unpicturesque confusion. In con- 
sequence of the unhealthiness of the place, few per- 
sons of any consequence reside there, and nothing has 
