TERCEIRA. 
7 
poorly. After exploring many unsightly passages, 
we penetrated a steep and dirty alley, and discovered 
the delectable refuge which we sought — not an hotel 
— the name would have been resented as an indignity 
by the inflated host, the proud vendor of all things 
vendible, from a yard of cloth to a cargo of oranges. 
In the limited commerce of Terceira, wholesale and 
retail dealings are usually in the same hands, and thus 
the meanest shopkeeper, among other immunities, 
enjoys rank among the trading aristocracy of the land, 
and, of his own proper right, rejoices in the title of 
merchant. 
Having seen most of the lions in Angra, we were 
tempted by the beautiful weather and want of occupa- 
tion to plan an excursion through the interior of the 
island. The Villa de Praya, upon the opposite coast, 
was selected as our destination, and one of the resi- 
dents, upon whom we had prevailed to act as our 
guide, promised us an excellent day’s sport. There 
are two roads from Angra to Praya; the lower one 
winding round the hold projecting headlands of the 
coast, the other leading through a varied succession of 
cultivated and waste lands, direct across the mountains. 
The latter was preferred, and having braced our nerves 
against sun and heat, we turned short up the precipi- 
tous mountain side which girds in the little capital, 
and speedily reached the summit, amply rewarded for 
our pains by the glorious scene around. Turning 
inland, we lost sight of the ocean, and descended upon 
