238 the amateur’s kitchen garden. 
Few people know the proper flavour of horseradish, for the 
very important reason that it is the most evanescent thing of 
its kind we have to do with in the management of the table. 
Let any one taste a few shreds of the root as they are freshly 
scraped, and then, having put a few aside, taste them in the / 
course of an hour or so. In the first instance the taste will 
be intensely pungent, harmonised by an agreeable sweetness. 
In the second instance you have a dry chip scarcely at all 
pungent, destitute of sweetness, and the properties that 
balanced it have gone away. To enjoy beef with horseradish, 
one condition requisite is that the vegetable should be fresh, 
and it is not at all unusual for the root to be scraped an hour 
or so before it is wanted, the consequence being that it is 
neither so white nor so fragrant, nor so brightly agreeable to 
the palate as it would be if served quite fresh. It must be 
admitted there is a little difficulty in putting horseradish on 
the table. It should look like foam, and emit a delicious 
fragrance. It is the case in many kitchens that various small 
jobs must be got rid of in good time, and so it happens that 
horseradish is scraped too soon and is put in some warm place 
to spoil as fast as it can. The way out of this difficulty is 
very simple. At a convenient time the horseradish may be 
made ready, and should be at once put into a small basin or 
tureen, or any other vessel in which it can be covered closely, 
and so be preserved from the action of the air. A basin with 
a saucer on it will generally answer the purpose. Put it in 
the coolest place you can find, and there leave it until the 
last moment. Then shake it up with a fork, and serve it as 
required, and you will find it scarcely less fragrant and full- 
flavoured then when first prepared, and the compromise be- 
tween time and quality is effected. 
Horseradish Sauce. — The best way to prepare this is to 
roughly cut up some fresh roots and put them into spirits of 
wine, and keep tightly corked. When the sauce is required, 
have ready some rich melted butter made with milk, or any of 
the approved forms of white sauce, and add a few drops of the 
tincture until the desired flavour is obtained. The bottle 
must always be kept closely corked, for both the spirit and 
the flavour are exceedingly volatile. This same tincture or 
essence may be mixed with fresh mustard and a little red 
pepper to produce a piquant sauce for a devilled chicken, or 
to accompany a broiled steak. If not mixed until wanted, it 
