296 
THE AMATEUR’S KITCHEN GARDEN. 
evening pnt out as many rows as possible, and give a little 
water to every plant. Next morning lay a few boughs or 
mats over them, to shade off the sun, and the next evening 
get out more, till the planting is finished. This is better 
than waiting for rain, which may be so heavy as to render the 
ground unfit to be trodden on, and, if succeeded immediately 
by heat, the plants will flag as much as if put out in dry . 
weather, whereas, being already in the ground, the smallest 
shower benefits them. Seed-beds for winter spinach should 
now be made up and well manured, and the seed got in with- 
out delay. In gathering French and runner beans, take all 
or none. If seed is desired, leave a row untouched. Never 
take green pods and seeds from the same plants. Take up 
onions, shallots, and garlic as they ripen, and store for winter. 
Give asparagus beds plenty of liquid manure, and use the 
grass mowings from the lawn as mulchings, to prevent the 
soil from cracking. Earth up celery for early use, but the 
rows that are not forward must be kept open and well watered, 
as the plants grow very slowly after being earthed up, the 
object of the earthing being to blanch it only. Also plant 
out the main crop of celery as soon as the ground can be got 
ready. Cut down artichokes. Hoe between all growing 
crops, and especially between potatoes. Top runners, and 
keep them well staked. Sow the last succession of runners 
and French beans ; also lettuce, endive, Stadtholder and 
Mitchell’s cauliflower, radish, small salads, spinach, peas, and 
turnips. .Land laying high and dry may be planted with 
potatoes now, for use early next spring. 
Keep gooseberry and currant bushes open in the centre, 
and leave on the bush fruits only as much wood as will bear a 
fine crop next season. Cuttings of gooseberries and currants 
may be struck now in a moist shady border. Mulch rasp- 
berries with half-rotten dung. Strawberry beds now want 
special attention. Strong-rooted runners should be taken off 
to form new plantations, and be pricked out into well- 
manured beds, pretty close together, to strengthen, prepara- 
tory to making new beds in September ; or they may be laid 
in small pots, with a stone or peg to fix them, and will root 
directly. After three years, strawberry beds cease to pay, 
and should be broken up, and the ground trenched for 
winter crops. Tie in and train as needful and use the 
syringe to wall trees, if the weather should be dry, and 
