130 
AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS 
April, 1914 
nure put in the bottom of the hole and turned under so 
that the roots are not in direct contact with it is sufficient. 
Place tubers on their side, not end up, and cover with two 
inches of soil. 
I'he plants require a space of three feet from plant to 
plant, and four feet between the rows, d’his gives them 
the benefit of sun and air, and you will get many more 
Bowers than when crowded. When the sprouts commence 
to grow thin out to one or two stems. This is the secret 
of fine blooms. When the plants are about fifteen inches 
high, pinch out the top of the growth. This will cause the 
side-shoots to grow and keep the plants sturdy. Stake each 
plant and tie the main stem as it grows. Keep the ground 
stirred, especially after rains, to prevent baking, or the 
roots will come to the surface in a short time and get 
scorched. This causes the plants to wilt, and so spoils the 
Bowers. As the first buds appear hoe lightly and mulch 
with lawn clippings or any material that will prevent dry- 
ing out. 
\V.\TERING 
Should the weather be very dry, make a basin round the 
plants by drawing the soil into a ring, fill with water twice, 
and after it has soaked through cover up with the dry soil 
again and mulch. Do not make the 
mistake of moistening the surface 
of the ground after every hot day. 
This does more harm than good. 
One watering by the basin method 
is worth ten on the surface, for the 
reason that it goes right into the 
ground, and the roots will keep 
down in the moist earth. If any feed- 
ing is required, a liquid made from 
cow or sheep manure and diluted 
with half clear water will help the 
plants at this time and assist in the 
development of the Bowers. i'his 
is better than most chemicals and 
the Bowers will last longer. 
I'ry disbudding some of your 
plants by rubbing out the side buds 
on a few of the shoots, allowing 
only the centre bud to develop. This 
should not be carried to excess, as a 
few buds assist in the decorative effect when used as sprays. 
Seedling Dahlias as a rule send up many suckers and 
side growths, which delay the flowering season materially 
unless they are thinned out; the same method as advised 
for the culture of plants from tubers and cuttings should 
be followed. 
COMHIN.ATION OF D.\HLIAS IN TIIK FLOWER BORDER 
The planting of Dahlias in the old-fashioned border 
to follow early flowering plants, has much to recom- 
mend it, with the passing of such old favorites as 
Sweet Williams, Foxgloves, Rockets, Canterbury Bells, 
etc., the garden, that was a blaze of flowers in early 
Summer, is apt to have a scarcity of bloom throughout 
the Fall. 
Dahlias supply a touch of color often needed at that 
season. The variety “Storm King” being of dwarf habit 
can be planted in the front of the border, as it seldom 
grows more than two feet in height. Its pure white flow- 
ers blend beautifully with the bright pink of “A. D. 
Livoni” and both varieties commence flowering in early 
August. 
“Catherine Duer” forms an exquisite combination with 
American Japonica. "'Fwentieth Century Scarlet” and 
“H. Patrick,” the latter being 
one of the best long-stemmed 
white dahlias, go well together. 
Both are fairly tall growers 
and remarkably free flowering. “C. 
W. Bruton” is unequalled as a 
tall yellow for filling in the back of 
the border and is a splendid com- 
panion for the scarlet and gold 
variety “Elisha.” If they can be 
planted against an evergreen back- 
ground, their beauty is greatly en- 
hanced. They can be planted be- 
tween Foxgloves that are to re- 
main another year and if grown 
on the single stem method, they 
make magnificent blooms. “Merry 
Widow,” a dwarf scarlet is ideal to 
plant in the foreground of Helen- 
ium. Delice, a beautiful rose pink, 
blends nicely with a group of white 
Decorative types of Dahlias 
