BARR & SONS, 11, 12 & 13 King Street, Covent Garden, London. 
3 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOX ES — continued. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for about twelve weeks (Roman Hyacinths rather less), 
in order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which portions may be removed indoors in succession, 
selecting first those which bloom naturally early. Place first in a cold frame, cool greenhouse, or cold 
sitting-room free from draughts, and keep partially shaded for a few days, giving water gradually. 
Very weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they come into flower. Those that 
are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be placed in a warmer temperature, 
such as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if fine blooms are desired. The plants 
should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, from an insufficient 
supply of light or air. On no account should bottom heat be given. A frequent mistake made in forcing 
bulbs is that they are removed from the plunging-bed too early, before they have made a sufficient quantity 
of fibrous roots ; they are then at once subjected to heat, and failure is the result. It is a good plan, 
when bulbs are removed from the plunging-bed, to place an inverted flower-pot over them for a day or 
two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot-Culture of Early Gladioli, Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, Bahianas, Calochorti, etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before the end of October 
to November. The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, and pro- 
tected with mats during severe frosty weather. There they should remain lor about three months, after 
which the treatment is similar to that for Spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Vases and Bowls. 
Such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, Crocuses, Sclllas, Chlonodoxas, Snowdrops, etc., 
In Barr’s Special Fibre Mixture. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing spring-flowering bulbs in fancy vases and bowls, with 
or without drainage, by simply using our specially prepared Fertilised Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture 
(3r. 6,7 . per bushel, is. per peck); the mixture is light, clean, and nice to handle, and remains sweet 
(an important matter where the vases used have no drainage holes) ; indeed, it is in every way pre- 
ferable to soil for growing bulbs in fancy bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the 
Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture up to within 
a little-below the rim, and plarit the bulbs in the 
same manner as with ordinary potting soil, just 
covering them ; the mixture may be shaken down 
into place after planting and lightly watered, but 
should not be pressed down tightly, or the bulbs 
will be forced upwards when root growth com- 
mences. 
After planting, either of the following plans 
may be adopted : — 
(а) The bowls or vases may be plunged out- 
doors on a bed of cocoa fibre or ashes, and covered 
entirely with cocoa fibre, leaving them thus for 
8 to 12 weeks, when the bulbs will have made 
good fibrous roots. 
(б) Or the bowls may be plunged in a cold 
frame, airy cellar, or out-house instead of out- 
doors ; with this treatment, however, it will be 
necessary to occasionally give water. 
(c) A third plan is to place the bowls after 
potting in a dark or moderately dark airy place, 
cool but not too cold ; they must not be placed 
in a close cupboard or the bulbs will certainly 
suffer ; treated thus they will also require a little 
water occasionally. 
In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there 
will be no need to give any attention in the way 
of watering, as they will, of course, have abund- 
ance of moisture from the autumn rains. Where, 
however, the bulbs are not exposed to the rain, the bowls should be examined once or twice a week, 
care being taken that the fibre mixture is kept uniformly damp ; but for the first week or two after planting 
water should be given very sparingly, sufficient only to keep the fibre damp enough to encourage root 
action. As soon as the bulbs are well rooted, water may be given more freely, the fibre mixture being 
then kept quite moist ; if the mixture is allowed at any time to become dry , even for a day, the flower 
buds will go blind ; should by any chance too much water have been given the bowls may be drained 
by carefully tipping them on their side. If obtainable, rain water is the best to use. 
When the bulbs have made some top growth the bowls should be removed to the sunny window of 
a sitting room, where they will get the morning sun, or be kept in a cool greenhouse close to the glass, 
it being necessary that they should be given sufficient light and air to prevent the foliage from becoming 
drawn. Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. 
No bottom heat should be given, and a temperature of 55° to 6o° by day and 50° to 55® by night 
is sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too warm a temperature. 
For Bowls and Fertilised Fibre Mixture, see page 2 of Cover. 
NARCISSUS GOLDEN SPUR 
growing in Barr’s Fertilised Fibre Mixture. 
