98 
PREPARATION TO LEAVE TUNG-CHOW. 
The carts, drawn each by one mule, resembled those which I have 
already described. The horses were miserable looking animals, both 
in themselves and in their caparisons. That on which I rode was 
about thirteen hands and a half high, of a bay colour, having all his 
bony points extremely prominent. Accustomed to follow en train , 
and of an obstinate temper, he would seldom pass any of his kind ; 
and always chose his own pace, which was something between a trot 
and an amble. His equipment perfectly harmonised with his personal 
properties. Two pieces of board forming the saddle, met at so 
acute an angle, that his bare spine would have afforded a more 
pleasant support. Behind and before it had two high projections, 
on the former of which I occasionally sat, to relieve myself from the 
effects of its central portion. A piece of scarlet cloth was indeed 
thrown over ; but as this was continually slipping, it rather increased 
than remedied the inconvenience arising from the bare boards. A 
piece of old cord formed the girt, and permitted the saddle to turn, 
when I endeavoured to mount. The stirrups were suspended by 
strings, so short, that they scarcely hung beneath the animal’s body, 
occasioning some danger of collision between my knees and nose. 
The bridle was of no better materials, and had a bit which the animal 
totally disregarded. A piece of cord attached to the reins served as 
a whip. Such an outfit would not have excited dissatisfaction, had it 
been similar to that of equestrians of respectability in the country ; 
but I did not witness an instance of the poorest Chinese being more 
miserably mounted. Remonstrance was in vain ; the mandarins in- 
sisted that no better means of conveyance were to be obtained, and 
many of the gentlemen preferred any other mode of travelling to 
that of the carts. 
One of the servants and one of the guard being too ill to travel 
without the means of more convenient transport, application was made 
to the Chinese for litters. Two were brought, but of a description 
that it was impossible to use. They were nothing more than two 
straw or wicker baskets, three feet and a half long and two broad, 
having the half of their bottoms out, and the remainder so rotten, 
