100 
REPAST ON THE ROAD. 
of the road well cultivated with millet ; but exhibited no scenery 
with any claim to description. 
We travelled so slow, that night came on before we had 
advanced five miles. My horse I very soon abandoned ; and having 
with no unintelligible marks of contempt yielded him up to a 
soldier, endeavoured to prosecute my journey on foot, and was 
instantly surrounded by a crowd of Chinese soldiers and porters, who 
accompanied us, and peasants who had assembled from the neighbour- 
hood. Their usual importunity was growing exceedingly trouble- 
some, when the coming up of the black drummer of the band 
suddenly relieved me. This man, of a fine figure, six feet in height, 
of a jet black complexion, was an object of irresistible curiosity with 
the Chinese. Wherever he went, crowds followed, and left every 
other person of the embassy to gaze upon him. To feel his hands, 
and to compare their colour with that of their own ; to endeavour by 
signs to ascertain from what part of the world he came, was their fre- 
quent and eager employment. We always thought ourselves fortunate 
in our excursions when he had preceded us, and carried off the 
mob. I continued my walk till after dark, when having suffered two 
or three severe falls from the holes in the road, I took refuge in the 
cart of a friend. 
About nine o’clock the procession halted at a small village distant 
five miles from Pekin. The Ambassador was conducted to a building 
more resembling a shed than a house, and ushered into a large 
apartment intended for the accommodation of all the persons 
of the Embassy, and some of their horses. At its further extre- 
mity, a long table was spread for the Ambassador and gentlemen of 
his suite ; in the centre, benches and tables were placed for the ser- 
vants, guard and band ; and at a short distance beyond these, horses 
received their fodder. Our repast consisted of fowls served up whole, 
but without any instruments to carve them. We were consequently 
obliged, much to the amusement of the bye-standers, to separate the 
limbs with our fingers. Water, and spirits in taste and strength like 
alcohol, were given us to drink. The room was filled by Chinese, who 
