102 
PEKIN. 
I was more fortunate than many of my companions. The manner 
in which I had relinquished my horse on the road induced the 
Chinese, who always watched minutely the actions of the persons 
of the Embassy, to replace him at our halting-place by another of a 
very different character. He was respectable both in condition and 
equipment, and soon enabled me to overtake the Ambassador, leaving 
the carts with the other gentlemen far behind. * 
Having given my horse to a servant, I mounted the box of the 
carriage, which was now escorted by men carrying large flambeaux, a 
precaution necessary to prevent its overturn by the inequalities of 
the road. The carts were lighted by small paper lanterns of 
a red colour, which in a long line produced a singular effect. 
About twelve o’clock we reached the suburbs of the city of Pekin, 
and found even at this late hour Chinese curiosity fully awake. 
Thousands of people crowded the road, holding up their small oval 
lanterns to gain a view of the procession. The light of these was 
sufficient to discover the faces of the crowd and the style of the 
buildings by which we were passing. It was a strange scene. The 
eye, after wandering over numberless naked and illuminated heads, 
rested on gilded Piazzas stretching in front of the houses, and reflect- 
ing the light of the torches. 
We were in constant apprehension of driving over the people ; 
but were saved from this misfortune by a band of Chinese soldiers, 
who flourishing whips on all sides, cleared the way with great dex- 
terity. After proceeding some time, we became anxious to reach 
the city gates ; but were soon mortified, by observing that the car- 
riage was quitting their direction, and that our conductors’ tale 
of the Governor of Pekin waiting our ' arrival, was only an instance 
of Chinese falsehood. The carriage being now directed to the 
* There can be little doubt from our subsequent experience, that the confusion and 
difficulties which embarrassed the suite, after the departure of His Lordship, were planned 
by the Chinese to separate them from each other. 
