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BARR’S GOLD MEDAL DAFFODILS, 1916. 
Culture and Adaptation of the Daffodil Outdoors — cuntim<ed. 
Groupings 'for Effect. — ^To obtain the best effect, Daffodils should be planted in large groups 
of irregular outline, each group or clump to contain one variety only ; avoid straight lines, circles, and 
symmetrical designs. Masses of Daffodils should always appear in the Hardy Flower border, where 
irregular and effective sweeps can be planted between the clumps of herbaceous plants which in their 
turn grow up and hide as well as shelter the Daffodil foliage while it is going to rest. In grouping 
Daffodils the season of flowering should be borne in mind, as the varieties bloom in succession from the 
end of February to the end of May, during which period, by a judicious selection, a constant succession 
of flowers can be maintained. On lO we denote the rotation of btooniin^. 
Na.tura,lising^ Dclffoclils in Grass, Etc. — Alt Daliibdils may be planted in grass 
with i>erfect success. To produce the best effect, the three groups should be kept separate : thus the Star 
Narcissi should not be mixed with the Great Trumpets, nor Poet’s Narcissi with the Star Narcissi. In 
planting, make the breaks large and bold, scattering the bulbs over tbe ground broadcast with the hand, 
and planting them where they fall. Daffodils never look more beautiful than when' growing on 
grassy slopes or banks, and we strongly recommend our customers to avail themselves of such situations 
for naturalising Daffodils. In planting under trees, avoid places where the drip from the branches is 
greatest, also wliere the main roots of the trees come close to the surface. 
Method of Planting Daffodils in Grass. — We recommend for this work our Special Bulb 
Planter {see page 31). By the use of this implement the trouble of planting bulbs in grass is reduced to 
a minimum. It takes out a clean, circular piece of turf 2 to 25 inches in diameter, and of sufficient depth. 
On making the second hole this piece of turf is released from the planter and lies ready on the ground to 
cover the bulb with. 1'he soil is not in any way tightly pressed and made hard, which is the case when 
an ordinary diblier is used, and the appearance of the grass is not spoilt ; in fact, after planting 10,000 
bulbs with this tool on a greensward, one could hardly detect that the grass had been touched. If the 
ground is poor, a compost of fresh soil with an abundance of Crushed Bones (7 lbs. to a bushel) or 
Phytobroma (3 lbs. to bushel) should be made and a little of the compost dropped into each hole before 
placing in the bulb, a little more should be given as a covering, and then the sod of turf be replaced and 
pressed down. The bulbs will then be given a fair start in their new quarters. 
The Best Time for Planting in Grass is with the advent of the autumn rainSy when the ground 
is in a fairly moist condition. 
CUTTING DAFFODILS FOR HOUSE DECORATION AND EXHIBITION. 
To obtain very fine blooms Daffodils should be cut in a young state, just when the bud is bursting, 
placed in water and allowed to expand in a greenhouse or sitting-room. The blooms opened in this 
way are larger and finer in texture and purer in colour than those which develop out of doors. 
Culture of Daffodils in Pots or Boxes. 
Time of Potting. — P ot as early in autumn as possible to obtain the finest results and earliest blooms. 
The best Compost to pot Daffodils in is a mixture of two-thirds good •fibrous loam, and one- 
third old decayed leaf soil, with a sprinkling of sharp silver sand, adding i J lbs of bone meal or i lb. 
Phytobroma {see page 32) to every bushel of soil, which mix well together before using. In all cases the 
soil used should be fresh and sweet ; never pot in soil that is wet or sticky. In order to destroy all 
injurious insect life it is a good plan to sterilise potting soil before adding the Phytobroma or bonemeal ; 
we recommend for this purpose the Kondine Soil Steriliser, price 40/* (full particulars on application), 
or small quantities of soil can be sterilised in a sack by pouring over it a large kettle of boiling water and 
then spreading out the soil to dry. 
The Pots should be carefully washed and allowed to dry before using ; new pots should be well 
soaked. Never pot in dirty or wet pots. 
Good Drainage should be secured by placing three or more pieces of charcoal (in preference to 
broken crocks) over the drainage hole, covering the charcoal or crocks with a little rough fibre from tlie 
loam. When boxes are used, the slit at bottom of box should be covered with pieces of charcoal, a 
good layer of rough fibrous loam or leaf soil placed at bottom of box to ensure perfect drainage. 
CoVEKiNG THE Bulbs. — T he larger bulbs need not be quite covered with soil, the level of which 
should be half an inch below the rim of the pot to allow of watering when the bulbs are in growth. 
Bulbs of the miniature species should be covered with half an inch of soil. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, on a firm bottom such as a bed of 
ashes or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. They should then be surrounded and com- 
pletely covered with Peat-fibre, or old decayed leaf soil (ashes are dangerous, as being often very 
poisonous), the top of the pots being 2 inches below the surface of the covering material. This will 
secure a natural and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots remain 
buried they will require no watering. 
