Barr’s Daffodil Satalogue, 1921. 
PRACTICAL HINTS ON BULB CULTURE. 
Culture for Spring-flowering Bulbs out of Doors. 
Proper Condition of Soil. — Plant bulbs only when the ground is in a nice friable state, and 
never when the soil is wet and sticky ; in such cases plant later when the soil is in a good friable condition. 
After digging or trenching, the ground should be allowed to settle at least ten days before planting. 
Depth to Plant . — Failures with bulbs are most frequently due to their having been planted too 
deeply or too shallow. A good general rule to follow is to cover the bulb with soil once and a half to 
twice its own depth, measuring the bulb from base to shoulder. Thus a daffodil bulb measuring 2 inches 
from base to shoulder should be covered with 3 to 4 inches of soil. The principal exceptions to this rule 
are Crocuses, which prefer shallow planting, and Erythroniums, Snowdrops and Tulips, which require 
deeper planting. We give special directions for these bulbs in body of our General Bulb Catalogue. 
Manure for Bulbs. — ^The ammonia in fresh stable manure is fatal to bulbs and is often the 
cause of failure in growing Tulips, Daffodils, etc., therefore only well-decayed stable or cow manure, or 
the material from an exhausted hot-bed, should be used. The best general manure for all bulbs growing 
outdoors is our Phytobkoma (which contains in suitable proportions Sulphate of Potash, Steamed 
Bone Flour, etc.) ; this should be forked into the ground at planting time at the rate of 3 oz. to the 
square yard, and a surface dressing of 3 oz. to the square yard applied early in spring (well hoed in) 
when top growth is showing. For heavy soils Basic Slao is good ; this should be put in the ground 
with the bulbs at time of planting at the rate of 7i oz. to the square yard. For light and sandy soils 
Crtished Bones can be recommended, put into the ground at time of planting at the rate of 2 oz. to the 
square yard, and after planting sprinkle on the surface of the ground Sulphate of Potash at the rate 
of 3 oz. per square yard. On hot, dry and sandy soils, old stable manure may with advantage be used, 
as it gives humus and helps to retain moisture in the soil ; it should bo dug in 15 to 18 inches deep, so 
as not to come in contact with the bulbs. In the case of bulbs which have not been lifted we recommend 
a top dressing (well hoed in) of Phytobeoma or Steamed Bone Flour in November and again in January 
or early February, at the rate of 3 oz. to the square yard. Price List of Manures will be found on “page 36. 
T op Dressing. — Where possible, wo advise a top dressing to all bulbs through the winter months 
of some light material such as long straw litter, cut heather, cut fuize branches, or Peat-Fibre. The 
advantage of this light covering is that it keeps the surface soil sweet by preventing the heavy winter 
rains from beating down the earth’s crust ; it also protects any early top growth. 
Lifting and Replanting. — When bulbs are lifted they should not, if possible, be replanted 
on the same ground, but where other bulbs or plants have previously been growing : thus, where Tulips 
have been growing last season, plant Daffodils this autumn, and so on. 
Time to Plant, — Daffodils may bo planted from middle of August to December, the later 
))lantings generally blooming a week or fortnight later than the early plantings. The time of planting 
for other bulbs we give under the heading of each family in our General Bulb Catalogue. 
Culture for Spring-flowering Bulbs in Pots or Boxes. 
Time of Potting. — September and October are best months for potting most spring-flowering 
bulbs. 
The best compost to use is a mixture of two-thirds good fibrous loam (which should be pulled 
to pieces by the hand, and not passed through a sieve) and one-third old decayed leaf soil, with a sprinkling 
of sharp silver sand, adding 1^ lbs. of bone meal or 1 lb. of Bhytobroma to every bushel of soil, which 
mix well together before using. In all cases the soil used should be fresh and sweet ; never pot in soil 
that is wet or sticky. Our Peat-Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture (see page 36) may also be used ; it is 
light and cleanly to handle, and is a suitable medium for growing all kinds of spring-flowering bulbs m 
pots or vases, either for indoor decoration or for cutting. 
Sterilising Soil. — In order to destroy all injurious insect life it is a good plan to sterilise potting 
soil before adding the Phytobroma or bonemeal. We recommend for this purpose the Kondine Soil 
Steriliser, or small quantities of soil can be easily sterilised in a sack by pouring over it a large kettle 
of boiling water and then spreading out the soil to dry. This will prevent a great deal of after trouble 
from worms or insects attacking the bulb roots. 
The pots should be carefully washed and allowed to dry before using ; new pots should be well 
soaked. Never plant in dirty or wet pots. 
Good drainage should be secured by placing tluec or more pieces of charcoal (in preference 
to broken crocks) over the drainage hole, covering the charcoal or crocks with a little rough fibre from 
the loam When bo.xes are u.sed, the slit at bottom of box should bo covered with pieces of charcoal, 
and a good layer of rough fibrous loam or leaf soil placed at bottom of box to ensure perfect drainage. 
Covering the Bulbs. — The larger bulbs need not be quite covered with soil, the level of which 
should be half an inch below the rim of the pot, to allow of watering when the bulbs are in growth. 
After potting, stand the pots or bo-xes outside in the open, on a firm bottom such as a bed of 
gravel or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. They should then be sui-rounded and com- 
pletely covered with Peat Fibre, Cocoa Fibre, or old decayed leaf soil (ashes from gas works arc dangerous 
