2 
BARR’S DAFFODIL CATALOGUE, 1921 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOXES— conlintud. 
as being often very poisonous to plant life), the top of the pots being 2 inches below the surface of the 
covering material. This will secure a natural and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. 
So long as the pots or boxes remain buried in this way they will require no watering. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for about twelve weeks (Roman 
and Italian Hyacinths rather less), in order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which portions may 
be removed indoors in succession, selecting first those which bloom naturally early. Place first in a cold 
frame, cool greenhouse or cold sitting-room free from draughts and keep partially shaded for a few days, 
giving water gradually. \^ery weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they 
come into flower. Those that are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be 
placed in a warmer temperature, sucli as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if fine 
blooms are desired. The plants should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed 
to get drawn, from an insufficient sui)ply of light or air. On ?io account should bottom heat he given. A 
frequent mistake made in forcing bulbs is that they are removed from the plunging-bed too early, before 
they have ?nade a sufficient quantity of fibrous roots ; they are then at once subjected to heat, and failure 
is the result. It is a good plan, when bulbs are removed from the plunging-bed, to place an inverted 
flower-pot over them for a day or two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot-Culture of Early Gladioli, Ixias, Morphixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias. etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before the end of October 
to November. The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, and pro- 
tected with mats during severe frosty weather. There they should remain for about tliree months, after 
which the treatment is similar to that for spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Spring-flowering Bulbs in Vases and Bowls 
ID Barr’s New Peat-Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing spring-flowering bulbs in fancy vases and bowls, with 
or without drainage, by using our Peat-Fibre Mixture (6s. 6d. per bushel. Is. 6d. per peck) ; the mixture is 
light, clean, and nice to handle, and remains sweet (an important matter where the vases u.sed have no 
drainage hole.s) ; indeed, it is in every way preferable to soil for growing bulbs in bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Peat-Flbr* 
Mixture up to within a little below the rim, and plant the 
bulbs in tlie same manner as with ordinary potting soil ; the 
mixture should be shaken dorvn into place after ])lanting and 
lightly watered, but should not be pressed down tightly, or the 
bulbs will be forced upwards when root growth commences. 
After planting, adopt either of the following plans : — 
(a) The bowls may be placed outdoors and covered 
entirely with Peat-Fibre or Cocoa fibre, leaving them thus for 
8 to 12 weeks (Early Roman and Italian Hyacinths rather 
less), when the bulbs will have made good fibrous roots. 
(b) Or the bulbs may be plunged in a cold frame, airy 
cellar, or out-house instead of outdoors ; with this treatment, 
however, it will be necessary to occasionally give water. 
(c) A third plan is to place the bowls after potting in a 
dark or moderately dark airy room, cool but not too cold ; 
they must not be placed in a close cupboard or the bulbs will 
certainly suffer. 
p. In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there will be no 
need to give any attention in the way of watering, as they 
will of course have abundance of moisture from the autumn 
rains. Wliere, however, the bulbs are not exposed to rain, the 
bowls should be examined once or twice a week, care being 
taken that the fibre mixture is kept uniformly damp ; but for 
the first week or two after planting water should be given very 
sparingly, sufficient only to encourage root action. As soon 
as the bulbs are well rooted, water may be given more freely, 
the fibre mixture being then kept quite moist ; if the mixture 
is allowed at any time to become dry, even for a day or two, the flower buds will probably become blind ; 
should by any chance too much water have been given, the bowls may bo drained by carefully 
tipping them on their side. If obtainable, rain water is the best to use. 
When the bulbs have made some top growth remove the bowls to the sunny window of a sitting- 
room, where they will get the morning sun, or put in a cool greenhouse close to the glass, as they must 
have sufficient light and air to prevent the foliage from becoming drawn. For a few days the bowls 
should be covered with tissue paper until the young growth has become accustomed to the light. 
Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. No bottom heat should be given, and a temperature 
of 56° to 60° by day and, 50° to 55° by night is sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too 
warm a temperature. 
When growth is fairly advanced water occasionally with weak liquid manure, a tablespoonful of 
our Phytobroma to a gallon of water kept well stirred. 
For Collections of Bulbs for Bowl Culture, tee page 4 of this Catalogue 
and page 3 of our General Bulb Catalogue. 
