BARR &. SONS, 11, 12 & 13 King; Street, Covent Garden, London. 3 
Naturalising Daffodils in Grass, Etc. — continued. 
Irving, Obvallaris, S))urius, Lent Lily, Princeps, Scolicus, Albicans, Pallklus Pnvco\, Moschatus of Ilaworih 
vvery pretty in grass), Queen of Spain (in our opinion the most beautiful of all lor this purpose), ami 
all varieties of Poeticus, including the old Double White. The Varieties underlined we do not 
recommend for the cultivated border, as they deteriorate the second year, while in woodlands, grass, or 
meadowland they nourish. 
Varieties for Naturalising in Grasslands, Parks, Meadows, on Lawns, etc. — The following 
fine trumpet varieties are all good strong growers, as well as being distinct and effective — Emperor, 
Empress, P. K. Barr, Golden Spur, Queen oe Spain, W. P. Milner, Hoksfiei.dii, Mada.me 
Plemp, Mrs. Thompson; of the chalice-cupped varieties the following are best suited to the jjurpose 
— Incomparabilis Heautv, Frank Miles, Stella superba, Sir Watkin; Leedsii M. M. de 
Graaff, Minnie Hume, and Mrs. Langtry; Barrii conspicuus, Flora Wilson, Crown Prince, 
Ellen Barr, Falstaff, John Bain, Odorus and O. rugulosus ; of the Poets’ Narcissi for planting 
in grass we recommend Poeticus ornatus, Almira, Herrick, and Poetarum and the late Pheasant’s 
F 2 ye (Poeticus recurvus); of the double-flowered daffodils, the Old Double Yellow (Telamonius 
plenus), Butter and Eggs, Eggs and Bacon, and Codlins and Cream may be used. 
For Lawns and Tennis Courts which have to be mown early we recommend the dainty Minimus, 
Cyclamineus, Minor, Nanus, and Lobularis. Being very early varieties the grass may be safely mown in May. 
Varieties for Planting by the Water Side. — Daffodils produce a charming effect when growing 
at the water’s edge. The following varieties we can strongly recommend for this purpose — and 
Odorus rugulosus^ with their rush-like foliage and graceful golden flowers ; Duchess of Westminster^ 
John Bain^ and the old late Pheasant's Eye Narcissus [Poeticus rean-vus), with their graceful starry 
flowers ; Emperor^ P. P. Barry and Empress, three noble trumpeters ; Sir Watkiny Barrii coiispicuuSy 
Stella superbdy Beauty y Frank MileSy and llic Dcuble White Poeticus or Gardenia-flowered A'arcissusy 
etc. In choice spots near the water’s edge the charming little Cyclamineus should be planted, as also 
the sulphur-coloured Hoop Petticoat Narcissus (A^. Biclbocodium citrinum), both of which luxuriate in 
moist grassland. 
Method of Planting Daffodils in Grass. — We recommend for this work our Special Bulb 
I’lanter {see illustratiouy page 37 ). By the use of this implement the trouble of planting bulbs in 
grass is reduced to a minimum. It takes out a clean, circular piece of turf 2 to 2^- inches in diameter, and 
of sufficient depth. On making the second hole this piece of turf is released from the planter and lies ready 
on the ground to cover the bulb with, 'i'he soil is not in any way tightly pressed and made hard, which 
is the case when an ordinary dibber is used, and the appearance of the grass is not spoilt ; in fact, after 
planting io,ooo bulbs with this tool on a greensward, one could hardly detect that the grass had been touched. 
If the ground is very poor and thin, a compost of fresh soil with an abundance of Crushed Bones (7 lbs. 
to a bushel) or Phytobroma (3 lbs. to bushel) should be made and a little of the compost dropped into 
each hole before placing in the bulb, a little more should be given as a covering, and then llie sod of 
turf be replaced and pressed down. The bulbs will then be given a fair start in their new (luarlers. 
{For price of Barrs Special Bulb Plantery see page 37.) 
The Best Time for Planting in Grass is with the advent of the autumn rainsy when the ground 
is in a fairly moist condition, it being impossible to plant whilst the ground is hard and solid from the 
summer heat; moreover, nothing is gained by planting in hot dry ground, to say notliing of the cost and 
labour of planting. 
Cutting Daffodils for Decoration. 
To obtain very fine blooms Daffodils should be cut in a young state, just when the bud is bursting, 
placed in water and allowed to expand in a greenhouse or sitting-room. The blooms opened in this 
way are larger and finer in texture and purer in colour than those which develop out of doors. 
Culture of Daffodils in Pots or Boxes. 
Time of Potting. — P ot as early in autumn as possible to obtain the finest results and earliest blooms. 
The best Compost to pot Daffodils in is a mixture of two-thirds gt)otl fibrous loam, and one- 
third old decayed leaf soil, with a sprinkling of sharp silver sand, adding li Ihs. of bone meal or i lb. 
Phytobroma {see page 38) to every bushel of soil, which mix well together before using. In all cases the 
soil used should be fresh and sweet ; never pot in soil that is wet or sticky. In order to destroy all 
injurious insect life it is a good plan to sterilise potting soil before adding the Phytobroma or boncmeal ; 
we recommend for this purpose the Kondine Soil Steriliser, price 40/- (full particulars on application), 
or small quantities of soil can be sterilised in a sack by pouring over it a large kettle of boiling water and 
then spreading out the soil to dry. This will prevent a great deal of after trouble from worms or insects 
attacking the bulb roots. 
The Pots should be carefully washed out with boiling water and wiped dry before using. Never pot 
in dirty or wet pots. 
Good Drainage should be secured by placing three or more pieces of charcoal (in preference to 
broken crocks) over the drainage hole, covering the charcoal or crocks with a little rough fibre from the 
loam. When boxes are used, the slit at bottom of box should be covered with pieces of charcoal, a 
good layer of rough fibrous loam or leaf soil placed at bottom of box to ensure perfect drainage. 
Covering the Bulbs.— T he larger bulbs need not be quite covered with soil, the level of which 
should he half an inch below the rim of the pot to allow of watering when the bulbs are in growth. 
Bulbs of the miniature species should be covered with half an inch of soil. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, on a firm bottom such as a bed ol 
ashes or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. They should then be surrounded and com- 
pletely covered with Peat-fibre, Cocoa Fibre, or old decayed leaf soil, the top of the pots being 
