4 
BARR’S GOLD MEDAL DAFFODILS, 1913. 
Culture of Daffodils in Pots or ^o\e%—conitnued. 
2 inches below ihe surface of the covering material. This will secure a natural and moist condition to 
the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots remain buried they will require no watering. 
TiiF POTS OR BO.XBS SHOULD RBMAIN PLUNGED for a period of not less than twelve weeks, aftei 
which first-early sorts (marked i in catalogue), such as Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Oisvallaris, 
■etc may be transferred to a greenhouse or sitting-room where the night temperature does not exceed 55 
and that of the day 60°. A higher temperature should not be given if well-developed blooms are wished 
for. If the pots are taken into a sitting-room they should be kept during the day m a sunny window and 
at all times should be protected from draughts and gas heat. Later-llowering Daffodils (marked in 
cataloeuc 2, it, and 4) should be brought into warmth later and in succession, thus sorts marked 4 should 
Tot be removal from the plunging bed until February or March. No Daffodils *‘11 bear hard forcing or 
bottom heat. After the bulbs are out of the plunging bed, give the plants as much light and air .as possible, 
and once a week a very little weak liciuid manure water until they come into bloom. , 1 
Of the stronger growing sorts use three to six Intlbs. according to size of bulb, for a pot measuring 4J to 6 
inches in diameter ; of the small miniature kinds, such as N. Minimus, Nanus, hhnor, Cydammeus, Triandius 
funcifolitis, and Bulbocodiums, use twelve to eighteen bulbs for a 4.^- to 6-inch pot. These small-flowered 
dwarf-growing species are most charming in pots or little shallow pans. The following may be had in bloom 
in lan^ry :-Minimus, Minor, Nanus, and Cycl.amineus, and these maybe mingled with Scillasibirica and 
Chionodoxas, as both bloom at the same pcrioil and produce a charming contrast, hor pot-culture he 
largest bulbs only oi Minimus, Cyclaminens, Tnandrus, mA Corlmlarias should be used, as being colleeted 
when in bloom there is an uncertainty in their ilowering the first season. The White HooP Tetticoat 
Narcissus should be potted in almost pure sand kept well moist, and if placed M once m a cold frame a te 
potting may be had in bloom by Christmas. {See Rock Garden Collections of Miniature Daffodils, 
If Daffodils are wanted in quantity for cutting early in the season, plant thickly m boxes, giving 
same culture as recommended above for growing in pots. Of the best varieties 
in boxes, the following command a first place : First early iur/r— Queen of spam. Excelsior, Heniy Irving, 
Victoria. Golden .Spur, Sir Waikin, Tel.amonius plenus; Second early sorts— hmpetor, Lmpiess, Ilorsfieldii, 
1'. R. Barr, Barrii conspicuus. Beauty, Stella su|)erba, Lcedsii Bridesmaid, Fairy Queen, etc. 
CULTURE OF DAFFODILS IN VASES AND BOWLS 
In Barr’s New Peat-fibre Mixture. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing Daffodils in fancy vases or bowls, with or without 
drainage holes, by simply using our specially prepared Fertilised Peat-fibre, Shell .and Charcoal Mixture (leady 
for ^. 3" 6,/. L b'usLl, IX. per‘peck); the mixture is light, clean, and nice to handle remains 
sweet : indeed, it is preferable to soil where Daffodils and other bulbs are grown in fancy bowls and vases. 
Culture.— Fill the vase or bowl with the hibre. Shell and 
Charcoal Mixture up to within a little below the rim, and plant 
the bulbs in the same manner as with ordinary potting soil, just 
covering them ; the mixture may be shaken down into place 
after planting and lightly watered, but should not be pressed 
down lightly, or the bulbs will be forced upwards when root 
growth commences. 
After planting, either of the following plans may be adopted 
(rt) The bowls or vases may be plunged outdoors on a bed of 
cocoa fibre or ashes, and covered entirely with cocoa fibre, 
leaving them thus for to to 12 weeks, when the bulbs will have 
made some top growth. 
(i) Or the howls may be plunged in a cold fr.ame, .airy cellar, 
or out-house instead of outdoors ; with this treatment, however, 
it will be necessary to occasionally give water. 
(f) A third plan is to place the bowls after potting in a dark 
or moderately dark airy jilace, cool but not too cold , they must 
not be placed in a close cupboard or the bulbs will certainly sufiei. 
In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there will be no need 
to give any attention in the way of watering, etc., as they will, 
of course, have abundance of moisture from the autumn^ rams. 
Where, however, the bulbs are not exposed to the rain, the 
bowls should be examined once or twice a w'eek, care being 
taken that the fibre mixture is kept uniformly damp ; but for 
the first week or two after planting water should be given very 
sparingly, sufficient only to keep the fibre damp enough to en- 
• r ' * ^ 
Fcrlilised Fibre in a Uoxvl ivithoiU d)ainage 
hole 
nutv. sparingly, suiiiucul k\j v— ....j- o - • 
courage root action. As soon as the bulbs are well rooted, water should be given more freely, the fibre 
mixluT-e being then kept cjuite moist ; if the mixture is allowed at any tune to become dry, even foi a da> , 
the buds will go blind ; should by any chance too much water have been given, the bowls may be drained 
bv carefully tipping Ihem on their side. If obtainable rain water is the best to use. 
^ When the bulbs have made some top growth the bowls should be removed to the sunny wmdow of a 
sitting room, where they will get the morning sun, or be kept in a cool greenhouse close to the glass, it 
being’ necessary that they should be given sutficient light and air to prevent the foliage from becoming 
draw n. Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. ^ 1 ,.,0 n.Vlp k 
No bottom heat should be given, and a temperature of 55 to 60 by day and 50 to 5, by night i.s 
sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too warm a temperature. 
For Fowls and Barr's New Fertilised Peat-fihre Mixture, see page 38. 
