2 
BARR’S GENERAL BULB CATALOGUE, Autumn, 1909. 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOXES— soii/iniKif. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, under a north wall by preference, 
on a firm bottom sucli as a bed of aslies or a gravel patli to prevent the entrance of worms. Then cover 
with Cocoa Kilrre, aslier, or old decayed leaf soil, pressing down the covering material in between the pots, 
which should be completely buried to a depth of 3 to 4 inches from the top. This will secure a natural 
and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots are plunged in the open 
they will require no watering. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged /i»- a pcriol oj not less than twelve weeks, in 
order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which portions may be removed indoors in succession, 
selecting first those which bloom naturally early. Place first in a cold fr,ime, cool greenhouse, or cold 
sitting-room free from draughts, and keep partially shaded for a few days, giving water gradually. 
Very weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they come into bloom. Those that 
are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be placed in a warmer temperature, 
such as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if fine blooms are desired. The plants 
should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, from an insufficient 
supply of light or air. On no account should bottom he.at be given. A frequent mistake made in forcing 
bulbs is that they are removed from the plunging-bed too early, before they have made a sufficient quantity 
of fibrous roots. They are then at once subjected to heat, and failure is the result. It is a good plan, 
when bulbs are removed from the plunging-bed, to place an inverted flower-pot over them for a day or 
two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot-Culture of Early Gladioli, Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, Babianas, Calochorti, etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before the end of October 
to November. The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, or under a 
south wall, for about three months, after which the treatment is similar to that for Spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Vases and Bowls. 
Such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, Crocuses, Sclllas, Chionodoxas, Snowdrops, etc. 
A charming cflect can be obtained by growing spring-flowering bulbs in fancy vases and bowls, with 
or without draimage, by simply using our specially prepared Fertilised Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture 
(3r. fiif. per bushel, is. per peck) ; the mixture is light, clean, and nice to h.andle, and remains sweet (an 
important matter where the vases used have no drain.age holes) ; indeed, it is in every way prefer.able to 
oil for growing bulbs in faney bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Fibre, Shell 
and Charcoal Mixture up to within a little below the rim, and 
plant the bulbs in the same manner as with ordinary potting 
soil, just covering them. After planting, plunge the bowls or 
vases out of doors on a bed of cocoa fibre or ashes, and cover 
entirely with cocoa fibre, leaving them thus for about 12 
weeks ; they may then be transferred to a sunny window of a 
cool airy sitting-room (selecting a window that gets the 
morning stm) or to a cool greenhouse placed close to the 
glass, where they may be flowered in the same way as pot 
Hyacinths; they should be kept as near the glass as possible, 
and given suflicient light and air to prevent the foliage be- 
coming drawn. When the flower buds are advanced, they 
may be removed to a warmer temperature, such a.s a slow 
forcing-house or a warmer sitting-room, still being given as 
much light as possible. No bottom heat must ever be g iven, 
neither should they be placed in too warm a temperature u ntil 
the flower buds are well developed. 
Where it is not convenient to place the bowls outside they 
may be plunged in cocoa fibre in a cold frame, or cool aisy 
cellar, giving sufficient water after planting to make the fibre 
mixture moderately damp. For the first week or two after 
planting, water must be given sparingly, su.fficient only to keep 
the fibre mixture damp enough to encourage root action ; as 
soon as the bulbs are well rooted, water should be given more 
freely, the fibre mixture being then kept quite moist. The 
fibre must never be allowed at any time to become dry, even 
■ ^tabs wm sun-er. 
SPECIAL FANCY VASES AND BOWLS for growing Spring-flowering Bulbs in. 
We have had S])ecial vases made for us by Messrs. Doulton for the above-named purpose. The 
vases are of elegant shaiie^ and without drainage holes, thus saving the use of saucers. They will be 
found most usefvil for Daliodils, Hyacinths, I ulips, Crocuses, Karly Scillas, Snowdrops, Chionodoxas, 
Lily of the Valley, etc , either for table decoration or the greenhouse. During Summer they may be used 
for standing little pot-plants in and other table decoration. 
Bapp’s “ Doulton- Wai’e ” Bulb Vases (as illustrated), ung'lazed, neutral drab shade 2I in diameter, 
-/9; 4 m. dia., 1/3; 5J in. di.i., 2/-; 7 in. dia. 3/- each. 
Ditto, glazed, in dark or light green aj in. dia., -/p ; 4 in. di.a., 1/3 ; in. dia., 2/- ; 7 in. dia. 3/- each. 
Fancy Decopated Japanese Bowls:— 5 in. diameter, -/lo ; 6 in. dia., 1/3 ; 7 in, di.i., 1/9 ; 81 in. di'. 
3/- ; 9.1 in. dia., 4/- ; loj in. dia., 6/- ; 12 in. dir., 8/6 each. 
Bapp’s Feptlllsed Fibre, Shell, and Charcoal Mixture, 3/6 per bushel ; i/- per peck (bags free). 
