2 
BARR’S DAFFODIL CATALOGUE, 1920. 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOXES— 
Covering the Bulbs. — The larger bulbs need not be quite covered with soil, the level of which 
should be half an inch below the rim of the pot, to allow of watering when the bulbs are in growth. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, on a firm bottom such as a bed of 
gravel or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. They should then be surrounded and com- 
pletely covered with beat Fibre, Cocoa Fibre, or old decayed leaf soil (ashes from gas works are 
dangerous as being often very poisonous to plant life), the top of the pots being 2 inches below the 
surface of the covering material. This will secure a natural and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage 
root action. So long as the pots or boxes remain buried in this way they will require no watering. 
The pots OP boxes should pemaln plunged fop about twelve weeks (Roman and Itali.in 
Hyacinths rather less), in order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which portions may be removed 
indoors in succession, selecting first those which bloom naturally early. Place first in a cold frame, cool 
greenhouse, or cold sitting-room free from draughts, and keep partially shaded for a few days, giving water 
gr.adually. Very weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they come into flower. 
Those that are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be placed in a warmer 
temperature, such as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65“ if fine blooms arc desired. 
The plants should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, from an 
insufficient supply of light or air. On no account should bottom heat be given. A frequent mistake made 
in forcing bulbs is that they .are removed from the plunging-bed too early, before they have made a sufficient 
quantity of fibrous roots ; they are then at once subjected to heat, and failure is the residt. It is a 
good plan, when bulbs are removed from the planging-be<l, to place an inverted flower-pot over them 
for a d.ay or two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot-Cultupe of Eaply Gladioli, Ixlas, Spapaxls, Tpltonlas, Bablanas, etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before tlie end of October 
to November. The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, and pro- 
tected with mats during severe frosty weather. There they should remain for about three months, after 
which the treatment is similar to that for Spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Vases and Bowls, 
In Bapp’s New Peat-Flbpe, Shell and Chapcoal Mlxtupe. 
A charming eflect can be obtained by growing spring-flowering bulbs in fancy v.ascs and bowls, with 
or without drainage, by using our Peat-Fibre Mixture (4X. 6 d per bushel, is. (id. per peck) ; the mixture is 
light, cle.an, and nice to handle, and remains sweet (an important matter where the vases used have no 
drainage holes) ; indeed, it is in every way preferable to soil for growing bulbs in bowls and vases. 
Culture, — Fill the vase or bowl with the Peat-Fibro 
Mixture up to within a little below the rim, and plant the 
bulbs in the same manner as with ordinary potting soil ; the 
mixture should be shaken down into jflace after planting aiul 
lightly watered, but should not be pre.ssed down tightly, or the 
bulbs will be forced upwards when root growth commences. 
After planting, adopt either of the following plans : — 
(a) The bowls may be placed outdoors and covered en- 
tirely with Peat-Fibre or Cocoa fibre, leaving them thus for 
8 to 12 weeks (Early Roman and Italian Hyacinths rather 
less), when the bulbs will have made good fibrous roots. 
(b) Or the bowls may be plunged in a cold frame, airy 
cellar, or out-house instead of outdoors ; with this tre.atment, 
however, it will be necessary to occasionally give water. 
(f) A third plan is to place the bowls after potting in a 
dark or moderately dark airy room, cool but not too cold ; 
they must not be placed in a close cupboard or the bulbs 
will certainly suffer. 
In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there will be no 
need to give any attention in the way of watering, as they 
will of course have abundance of moisture from the autumn 
rains. Where, however, the bulbs are not exposed to rain, the 
Irowls should be examined once or twice a week, care being 
taken that tile fibre mixture is kept uniformly ilamp ; but for 
the first week or two after planting water should be given very 
sparingly, sufficient only to encourage root action. As soon 
as the bulbs are well rooted, water may be given more freely, 
io oHr.w.,.1 or on.. rs».o r* u j ft"; fil’re mixture being then kept quite moist ; if the mixtuFO 
blind” 1 ^ ‘ become dry, even for a day, the flower buds will probably become 
blind, should by any chance too much wafer have been given, the bowls may be drained by carefully 
lipping them on their side. If obtainable, rain water is the best to use. 
When the bulbs have made some top growtli the bowls should be removed to the sunny window of 
as. ling room, where they will get the morning sun, or be kept in a cool greenhouse close L Ihe Xss, 
rlrnlln nn ^ ^ 'fi!“ 1 11' '*ght and air to prevent the foliage from beco^ning 
drawn up. I oi a few days the bowls should be covered with tissue paper until the young growth has 
become accustomed to the light. Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. 
R c, m ° bottom heat should be given, and a temperature of 55° to 60° by day and 50° to 55° by night 
IS sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too warm a temperature. 
Fop Collections of Bulbs fop Bowl Cultupe, see pagre 4 of this Catalog-ue, and 
pag-e 3 of oup Oenepal Bulb Catalogue. 
NARCISSUS rOETAZ ELVIRA 
growing in Han’s Peat-Fibre Mixture 
