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BARR’S GENERAL BULB CATALOGUE, Autumn, 1906. 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOXES— continued. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, under a north wall by preference, 
on a firm bottom such as a bed of ashes or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. Then cover 
with Cocoa Fibre, ashes, or old decayed leaf soil, pressing down the covering material in between the pots, 
which should be completely buried to a depth of 3 to 4 inches from the top. This will secure a natural 
and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots are plunged in the open 
they will require no watering. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for a period of not less than twelve weeks, in 
order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which portions may be removed indoors in succession, 
selecting first those which bloom naturally early. Place first in a cold frame, cool greenhouse, or cold 
sitting-room free from draughts, and keep partially shaded for a few days, giving water gradually. 
Very weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they come into bloom. Those that 
are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be placed in a warmer temperature, 
such as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if fine blooms are desired. The plants 
should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, from an insufficient 
supply of light or air. On no account should bottom heat be given. A frequent mistake made in forcing 
bulbs is that they are removed from the plunging-bed too early, before they have made a sufficient quantity 
of fibrous roots. They are then at once subjected to heat, and failure is the result. It is a good plan, 
when bulbs are removed from the plunging-bed, to place an inverted flower-pot over them for a day or 
two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot-Culture of Early Gladioli, Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, Babianas, Calochorti, etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before the end of October 
to November. The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, or under a 
south wall, for about three months, after which the treatment is similar to that for Spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Vases and Bowls. 
Such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, Crocuses, Scillas, Chlonodoxas, Snowdrops, etc. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing spring- flowering bulbs in fancy vases and bowls, with 
or without drainage, by simply using our specially prepared Fertilised Cocoa Fibre and Charcoal Mixture 
(3s. 6 d. per bushel, Ii. per peck) ; the mixture is light, clean, and nice to handle, and remains sweet (an 
important matter where the vases used have no drainage holes) ; indeed, it is in every way preferable to 
potting soil for flowering Daffodils and other bulbs in fancy bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Cocoa Fibre 
Mixture and plant the bulbs in the same manner as with 
ordinary potting soil ; the larger bulbs should be about half 
covered, and the smaller ones only just covered. When potting, 
fill the vase with the mixture up to a little below the rim, so 
as to allow sufficient space for watering. Pot firmly. After 
potting, give sufficient water to make the whole moderately 
damp. The vases may be then either placed in a cold frame 
and plunged in cocoa fibre for twelve weeks, or they may be 
placed in a dark cupboard or cool airy cellar until they have 
made a few inches of top growth. They should then be placed 
in the window of a cool airy sitting-room or in a cool green- 
house close to the glass, and flowered in the same way as pot 
Hyacinths, being always kept as near to the glass as possible, 
and given sufficient light and air to prevent the foliage from 
becoming drawn. When the flower buds are advanced, they 
may be removed to a warmer temperature, such as a slow 
forcing-house or warmer sitting-room, still being given as much 
light as possible. No bottom heat must ever be given, neither 
should they be placed in too warm a temperature until the 
flower buds are well developed. Once the bulbs have started 
to make good growth, the mixture should be kept moist, but 
water must be given sparingly until the bulbs have made some 
inches of top growth. 
SPECIAL FANCY YASES AND BOWLS 
for growing Daffodils and other bulbs in. 
Si in. dia., 2/- ; 7 in. dia., 3/- each. 
S| in. dia., 2/- ; 7 in. dia., 3/- each. 
Barr s Fertilised Fibre and Charcoal Mixture, for growing 
3/6 per bushel ; 1/- per peck (bags free). 
