BARR & SONS, 11, 12 & 13 King; Street, Covent Garden, London. 3 
Naturalising Daffodils in Grass, Etc. — continued. 
Varieties for Naturalising in Grasslands, Parks, Meadows, on Lawns, etc. — The following 
are all good strong growers: Trumpets— Emperor, Empress, Excelsior, Golden Spur, Queen of 
Spain, W. P. Milner, Madame Plemp, Mrs. Thompson, Madamf, de Graaff ; Chalice- 
cupped— Incomparabilis Beauty, Autocrat, Cynosure, Frank Miles, Stella superba. Sir 
Watkin; Leedsii Fairy Queen, M. M. de Graaff, Minnie Hume, and Mrs. Langtry; Barrii 
coNSPicuus, Flora Wilson, John Bain, Odorus and O. rugulosus, Poeticus ornatus, 
Almira, Herrick, Poetarum and the old I’heasanl’s Eye, the Old Double Yellow (Telamonius 
PLENUs), Butter and Eggs, Eggs and Bacon, and Codlins and Cream. 
For Lawns and Tennis Courts which have to be mown early we recommend the dainty Minimus, 
Cyclamineus, Minor, Nanus, and Lobularis. Being very early varieties the grass may be safely mown in May. 
Varieties for Planting by the Water Side. — Daffodils produce a charming effect when growing 
fit the water’s edge. The following varieties we can strongly recommend for this purpose— Oabpwr and 
Odorus rugulosus, with their rush-liUe foliage and graceful golden flowers ; Dtichess of Westminster, 
fokn Bain, and the old Pheasant's Eye Poeticus ; Emperor and Empress, Sir Watkin, Barrii conspicuus, 
Stella superba. Beauty, Frank Miles, and the Double White Poeticus, etc. In choice spots near the water’s 
edge the charming little Cyclamineus should be planted, as also the sulphur-coloured Hoop Petticoat 
Narcissus (N. Bulbocodium citrinnm), both of which luxuriate in moist grassland. 
Method of Planting Daffodils in Grass. — We recommend for this work our Special Bulb 
Planter {see page 35). By the use of this implement the trouble of planting bulbs in grass is reduced to 
a minimum. It takes out a clean, circular piece of turf 2 to 2| inches in diameter, and of sufficient depth. 
On making the second hole this piece of turf is released from the planter and lies ready on the ground to 
cover the bulb with. The soil is not in any way tightly pressed and made hard, which is the case when 
an ordinaiy dibber is used, and the appearance of the grass is not spoilt ; in fact, after planting 10,000 
bulbs with this tool on a greensward, one could hardly detect that the grass had been touched. If the 
ground is poor, a compost of fresh soil with an abundance of Crushed Bones (7 lbs. to a bushel) or 
Phytobroma (3 lbs. to bushel) should be made and a little of the compost dropped into each hole before 
placing in the bulb, a little more should be given as a covering, and then the sod of turf be replaced and 
pressed down. The bulbs will then be given a fair start in their new quarters. 
The Best Time for Planting in Grass is with the advent of the autumn rains, when the ground 
is in a fairly moist condition. 
CUTTING DAFFODILS FOR HOUSE DECORATION AND EXHIBITION. 
To obtain very fine blooms Daffodils should be cut in a young state, just when the bud is bursting, 
placed in water and allowed to expand in a greenhouse or sitting-room. The blooms opened in this 
way are larger and finer in texture and purer in colour than those which develop out of doors. 
Culture of Daffodils in Pots or Boxes. 
Time of Potting. — Pot as early in autumn as posdble to obtain the finest results and earliest blooms. 
The best Compost to pot Daffodils in is a mixture of two-thirds good fibrous loam, and one- 
third old decayed leaf soil, with a sprinkling of sharp silver sand, adding i§ lbs. of bone meal or I lb. 
Phytobroma {see page 36) to every bushel of soil, which mix well together before using. In all cases the 
soil used should be fresh and sweet ; never pot in soil that is wet or sticky. In order to destroy all 
injurious insect life it is a good plan to sterilise potting soil before adding the Phytobroma or bonemeal ; 
we recommend for this purpose the Kondine Soil Steriliser, price 40/- (full particulars on application), 
or small quantities of soil can be sterilised in a sack by pouring over it a large kettle of boiling water and 
then spreading out the soil to dry. 
The Pots should be carefully washed and allowed to dry before using ; new pots should be well 
soaked. Never pot in dirty or wet pots. 
Good Drainage should be secured by placing three or more pieces of charcoal (in preference to 
hroken crocks) over the drainage hole, covering the charcoal or crocks with a little rough fibre from the 
loam. When boxes are used, the slit at bottom of box should be covered with pieces of charcoal, a 
good layer of rough fibrous loam or leaf soil placed at bottom of box to ensure perfect drainage. 
Covering the Bulbs.— T he larger bulbs need not be quite covered with soil, the level of which 
should be half an inch below the rim of the pot to allow of watering when the bulbs are in growth. 
Bulbs of the miniature species should be covered with half an inch of soil. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, on a firm bottom such as a bed of 
ashes or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. They should then be surrounded and com- 
pletely covered with Peat-fibre, or old decayed leaf soil (ashes are dangerous, as being often very 
poisonous), the top of the pots being 2 inches below the surface of the covering material. This will 
secure a natural and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots remain 
buried they will require no watering. 
