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BARR’S GENERAL BULB CAtALOGUE, Autumn, l90t. 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOXES— (on/imieJ. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, under a north wall by preference, 
on a firm bottom such as a bed of ashes or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. Then cover 
with Cocoa Fibre, ashes, or old decayed leaf soil, pressing down the covering material in between the pots, 
which should be completely buried to a depth of 3 to 4 inches from the top. This will secure a natural 
and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots are plunged in the open 
they will require no watering. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for a period of not less than twelve weeks, in 
order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which portions may be removed indoors in succession, 
selecting first those which bloom naturally early. Place first in a cold frame, cool greenhouse, or cold 
sitting-room free from draughts, and keep partially shaded for a few days, giving water gradually. 
Very weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they come into bloom. Those that 
are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be placed in a warmer temperature, 
such as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if fine blooms are desired. The plants 
should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, from an insufficient 
supply of light or air. On no account should bottom heat be given. A frequent mistake made in forcing 
bulbs is that they are removed from the plunging-bed too early, before they have made a sufficient quantity 
of fibrous roots. They are then at once subjected to heat, and failure is the result. It is a good plan, 
when bulbs are removed from the plunging-bed, to place an inverted flower-pot over them for a day or 
two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot-Culture of Early Gladioli, Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, Babianas, Calochorti, etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before the end of October 
to November. The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, or under a 
south wall, for about three months, after which the treatment is similar to that for Spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Sprine-Floweringr Bulbs in Vases and Bowls. 
Such as Hyacinths, Tulips, DalTodils, Cpocuses, Sclllas, Chlonodoxas, Snowdpops, etc. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing spring-flowering bulbs in fancy vase.s and bowls, with 
or without drainage, by simply using our specially prepared Fertilised Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture 
(3r. 6d. per bushel, is. per peck) ; the mixture is light, clean, and nice to handle, and remains sweet (an 
important matter where the vases used have no drainage holes) ; indeed, it is in every way preferable to 
soil for growing bulijs in f.rncy bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Fibre and 
Charcoal Mixture and plant the bulbs in the same manner as 
with ordinary potting soil, just covering the bulbs. When 
potting, fill the vase with the mixture up to a little below the 
rim, so as to allow sufficient space for watering. After 
potting, give sufficient water to make the whole moderately 
damp. The vases may be then either placed in a cold frame 
or a cool airy cellar, plunged in cocoa filrre, until the bulbs 
have made an inch or two of top growth ; they may then be 
transferred to the window of a cool airy sitting-room or to a 
cool greenhouse placed close to the glass, where they may be 
flowered in the same w.iy as pot Hyacinths, they should be 
kept as near the glass as possible, and given sufficient light 
and air to prevent the foliage from becoming drawn. When 
the flower buds are advanced, they may be removed to a 
warmer temperature, such as a slow forcing-house or a warmer 
sitting-room, still being given as much light as possible. No 
bottom heat must ever be given, n either should they be plac^ 
i n loo warm a temperature until the flower buds are well 
developed . For the first week or two after planting, water 
must be given sparingly, sufficient only to keep the fibre 
mixture damp enough to encouix^e root aclion ; as soon as 
the bulbs are well rooted, water should be given more freely, 
the fibre mixture being then kept quite moist. 
SPECIAL FANCY VASES AND BOWLS 
for growing Daffodils and other bulbs in. 
We have had special little fancy vases made for us by 
Messrs. Doulton for the above-named purpose. The vases are 
of elegant shape, of a neutral art drab shade, and without 
drainage hole.r, thus saving the use of saucers. They will be found most useful for growing Spring-flowering 
bulbs in, either for table decoration or the greenhouse. During Summer they may be u.sed for table 
decoration planted with Pansies or such low-growing hardy flowers, or for standing little pot-plants in. 
Barrs " Doulton-Ware " Bulb Vases (as illustrated): — 2j- in. diameter, -/g ; 4 in. dia., 1/3; 
si in. dia., 2/- ; 7 in. dia., 3/- each. 
Fancy Decorated Japanese Bowls:— 5 in. diameter, -/lo ; din. dia., 1/3; yin. dia., 1/9; 8i in. 
dia., 3/- ; 9; in. dia., 4/- ; loj in. dia., 6/- ; 12 in. dia., 8/6 each. 
Barr's Fertilised Fibre, Shell, and Charcoal Mixture, for growing bulbs in Vases, Bowls, Jardinets, 
etc., 3/6 per bushel ; i/- per peck (bags free). 
