4 
BARR’S Gold Medal Daffodils, 1905. 
NATURALISING DAFFODILS IN GRASS, ETC. — continued. 
Varieties specially Suitable for Naturalising in Grasslands, Parks, on Lawns, Meadows, 
Etc. — The following are all very free bloomers, good strong growers, as well as distinctive effective 
varieties, showing up well from a distance ; the flowers are beautiful and valuable for cutting : Emperor, 
Empress, P. R. Barr, Queen of Spain, W. P. Milner, Ilorsfleldii, Mrs. Thompson ; all handsome trumpet 
varieties ; the following are the best of the chalice-cupped : Incomp. Beauty, Frank Miles, Stella superba, 
Sir Watkin, Leedsii, M. M. de Graaff, Duchess of Brabant, Minnie Hume, Mrs. Langtry and Palmerston, 
Barrii conspicuus. Flora Wilson, Crown Prince and Siddington, Odorus and O. rugulosus ; of the Poets 
or Dolly-cupped the following are the best : Ellen Barr, Falstaff, John Bain, the early Pheasant’s Eye 
(Poeticus ornatus), and the late Pheasant’s Eye (Poeticus of gardens); and of the double-flowered daffodils : 
The Old Double Yellow {Telamonius plenus). Butter and Eggs, Eggs and Bacon, and Codlins and Cream. 
For Lawns and Tennis Courts which have to be mown early we recommend the dainty Minimus 
and Cyclamineus, which make a charming picture. Being very early varieties the grass may be safely 
mown in May. 
Varieties Suitable for Planting by the Water Side. — Daffodils produce a charming effect when 
growing at the water’s edge. The following varieties we can strongly recommend for this purpose — 
Odorus and Odorus rugulosus, with their rush-like foliage and graceful golden flowers ; Duchess of 
Westminster, John Bain, and the c/if late Pheasant's Eye Narcissus (PoHicus), their graceful starry 
flowers ; Emperor, P. K. Barr, and Empress, three noble trumpeters ; Sir Watkin, Barrii cottspicuus, 
Stella superba. Beauty, Frank Miles, and the Double White Poeticus or Gardenia-Jlowered Narcissus, etc. 
In choice spots near the water’s edge the charming little Cyclamineus should be planted, as also the 
sulphur-coloured Hoop Petticoat Narcissus {N. Bulbocodium citrinum), both of which luxuriate in moist 
grassland. 
Method of Planting Daffodils in Grass. — We recommend for this work our Special Bulb 
Planter (sec illustration, page 39). By the use of this implement the trouble of planting bulbs in 
grass is reduced to a minimum. It takes out a clean, circular piece of turf 2 inches in diameter, and of 
sufficient depth. On making the second hole this piece of turf is released from the planter and lies ready 
on the ground to cover the bulb with. The soil is not in any way tightly pressed and made hard, which 
is the case when an ordinary dibber is used, and the appearance of the grass is not spoilt ; in fact, after 
planting 10,000 bulbs with this tool on a greensward, one could not detect that the grass had been touched 
If the ground is very poor and thin, a compost of fresh soil with, an abundance of Crushed Bones (7 lbs. 
to a bushel) should be made and dropped into each hole before placing in the bulb, a little more should 
be given as a covering, and then the sod of turf be replaced and pressed down. The bulbs will then be 
given a fair start in their new quarters. (For price of Barr's Special Bulb Planter, see page 39.) 
The Best Time for Planting in Grass is with the advent of the autumn rains, wdien the ground 
is in a fairly moist condition, it being impossible to plant whilst the ground is hard and solid from the 
summer heat ; moreover, nothing is gained by planting in hot dry ground, to say nothing of the cost and 
labour of planting. 
CULTURE OF DAFFODILS IN POTS OR BOXES. 
Time of Potting. — Pot as early in autumn as possible to obtain the finest results and earliest blooms. 
The best compost to pot Daffodils in is a mixture of two-thirds good fibrous loam (which 
should be pulled to pieces by the hand and not passed through a sieve, so as to retain in the soil as 
much old root fibre as possible), and one-third old decayed leaf soil, with a sprinkling of sharp silver 
sand, adding ij lbs. of bone meal or Phytobroma (see page 38) to every bushel of soil, which mix 
well together belore using. Never pot in soil that is wet or sticky. Barr’s F’ertilised Fibre and Charcoal 
may also be used ; it is light and cleanly to handle, and is a suitable medium for growing all kinds 
of spring-flowering bulbs in pots or vases, either for indoor decoration or for cutting. (See page 38.) 
The Pots should be carefully washed or wiped clean before using. Never pot in dirty or wet pots. 
Good drainage should be secured by placing three or more pieces of broken crocks over the hole, 
placing the crocks with bevelled sides uppermost, then cover crocks with a little rough fibre from the 
loam. When boxes are used, the slit at bottom of box should be covered with crocks, a good layer 
of rough fibrous loam placed at bottom of box, or a layer of leaf soil to ensure perfect drainage. 
In potting, the larger bulbs should be two-thirds covered with soil and the pots filled to within 
half an inch of the rim to allow of watering when in growth. The small bulbs of the miniature species 
should be covered with half an inch of soil. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, under a north wall by preference, on a 
firm bottom such as a bed of ashes or gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. The pots should 
be plunged bodily in Cocoa Fibre, ashes, or old decayed leaf soil, filling in the covering material in 
between the pots, which should be completely buried to a depth of 4 inches. This will secure a natural 
and moist condition to the bulbs and encourage root action. So long as the pots are plunged in the open 
they will require no watering. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for a period of not less than twelve weeks, after 
which portions may be removed indoors in succession, selecting first those which bloom naturally 
early. Place first in a cold frame, cool greenhouse, or cold sitting-room free from draughts, close to 
the glass. Very weak liquid manure-water may then be given once a week until they come into bloom. 
Those that are wanted in bloom early may, after the flower buds are advanced, be placed in a warmer 
temperature, such as a slow forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if really fine blooms are 
desired. The plants should always be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, 
from an insufficient supply of light or air. On no account should bottom heat be given in forcing Daffodils. 
Of the stronger growing sorts use three to six bulbs, according to size of bulb, for a pot measuring 45 to 6 
inches in diameter ; of the small miniature kinds, such as N. Minimus, Nanus, Minor, Cyclamineus, Triandrus, 
