2 
BARR’S GOLD MEDAL DAFFODILS, 1910. 
Culture and Adaptation of the Daffodil Outdoors. 
Soil and its Treatment The Daffodil will thrive in any ordinary garden soil, but prefers 
a deep, rather moist loam. When the soil is of a dry and sandy nature, it should be deeply dug, i( 
possible at least a season before planting the bulbs, well-decayed cow manure being added, and a potato 
or other vegetable or annual crop grown on the ground. Before the bulbs are planted a sprinkling of 
quick-lime should be spread on the surface and then dug in. If it is not convenient to first take off a crop 
of Vegetables or Annuals, then, in digging, mix with the soil crushed bones at the rate of 1-2 oz. to 
the square yard. The ammoniacal properties of stable manure are injurious to the Daffodil ; considerable 
risk is therefore incurred by using it. On good retentive loamy soils stable manure is not required and 
should not be used, but a dressing of lime once in every three years, with an annual dressing of Basic 
Slag, at the rale of 7i oz. to the square yard, may prove beneficial. 
Freshly dug Soil should be allowed to stand vacant two to three weeks before planting, to allow 
the ground to settle down, otherwise the freshly planted bulbs are sometimes drawn under considerably 
below their proper depth, and the bloom in consequence is apt to be weakened and retarded the hist season. 
The Best and Safest Manure to use is Crushed Bones or Basic Slag {for price see page 38). This 
should be applied at planting time, and may be mixed with the soil; the Crushed Bones may be 
applied at the rate of 4 cwt. to the acre, or oz. to the square yard, and Basic Slag may be applied 
in same manner at the rate of 1 ton to the acre, or 7J oz. to the square yard. We recommend for 
light soils Crushed Bones (provided they are genuine) in preference to Basic Slag. On very poor 
and dry sandy soils we recommend in addition Sulphate of Potash {for price see page 38), to be 
sprinkled annually in the autumn over the surface of the ground, after planting, at the rate of 2 cwt. to the 
acre, or about J oz. to the square yard. The potash not only increases the depth of colour in the flowers, 
but also helps to hold moisture in the soil, a condition so essential to the perfect development of the 
Daffodil. We also recommend the use of Phytobroma in autumn and spring (see particulars, page 38). 
In Early Spring, as soon as the Daffodils begin to show above ground, the surface soil should be 
well broken with a hoe, to sweeten it after the heavy winter rains ; a handy tool for this purpose will be 
found offered on page 37. Where practicable it is advisable to cover the ground in November with some 
light covering material (the idea is to prevent the autumn rains from beating down the crust of the ground, 
and to break the severity of a sudden frost). We use for this purpose pulled heather ; cut fuize 01 goise, 
however, answers the same purpose ; cut fern or bracken is bad, as it lies too wet ; old pea sticks laid 
across the ground are good, or on flower beds sprays or small branches of cut evergreens stuck into t le 
ground answer the purpose and look decorative ; these of course need renewing when they get shabby. 
Do not mulch the beds with manure. 
Planting and Lifting. — The best time to plant, to obtain the finest flowers, is early 
Autumn (as early as possible), although bulbs may be put in as late as Christmas with fairly satisfactory 
results ; we have planted some Daffodils as late as the second week in February, and had some very good 
blooms the third week in May. We recommend, however, early planting for best results. The bulbs may 
be left undisturbed for years in ordinary good loamy soils, but on poor and light soils they are bettei 
lifted every two years, as soon as the foliage has died down, and replanted if possible immediately or as 
early as is convenient. Never plant when the ground is wet and sticky. Do not put silver sand around 
the bulbs of Narcissi except in the case of N. corbularia. 
Depth to Plant. — The average depth to plant is from 2 to 3 inches, that is to say, a covering 
of 2 to 3 inches of soil, but not more. As the bulbs vary considerably in size, according to the 
relative varieties, the best rule to go by is the bulb itself, which should be covered with soil once and a half 
its own depth , measuring the bulb from the collar of its neck to its actual base. On flight sandy soils the 
bulbs may be planted a trifle deeper than on heavy stiff soils, and in the North of England and in cold 
localities they should be put in a little deeper than in the warmer southern districts. 
Position and Grouping -for Effect.— All Daffodils prefer partial shade, although 
most of them will grow equally well in the open. The varieties which are best grown in partial shade 
are indicated in the following pages by an *. In the flower border, to obtain the best effect. Daffodils 
should be planted in large groups of irregular outline, each group or clump to contain one variety only ; 
avoid straight lines, circles, and symmetrical designs. Masses of Daffodils should always appeal in the 
Hardy Flower border, where irregular and effective sweeps can be planted between the clumps of 
herbaceous plants which in their turn grow up and hide as well as shelter the Daffodil foliage while it is 
going to rest. In grouping Daffodils the season of flowering should be borne in mind, as the varieties 
bloom in succession from the end of February to the end of May, during which period, by a judicious 
selection, a constant succession of flowers can be maintained. On page 15 denote the rotation of blooming. 
Naturalising Daffodils in Grass, Etc.— All Daffodils may be planted in grass 
with perfect success. To produce the best eflect, the three groups should be kept separate : thus the Star 
Narcissi should not be mixed with the Great Trumpets, nor Poet’s Narcissi with the Star Narcissi. In 
planting, make the breaks large and bold, scattering the bulbs over the ground broadcast with the hand, 
and planting them where they fall. Avoid symmetrical lines or formal circles as far as possible, as these 
are not found in nature. In planting under trees, avoid places where the drip from the branches is 
greatest, also where the main roots of the trees come close to the surface. 
Daffodils never look more beautiful or are seen to greater advantage than when growing on 
grassy slopes or banks, and we strongly recommend our customers to avail themselves of such situations 
for naturalising Daffodils. 
Varieties specially Suitable for Naturalising in Woodlands, Grasslands, Glades, Etc., 
Delighting in Partial Shade. — The following are mostly free seeders, and will therefore spread 
naturally; they are mostly wild plants— Abscissus, Countess of Anne^lev, Excelsior, Golden Spur, Henry Irving, 
Obvallaris, Spurius, English Lent Lily, Princeps, Scoticus , Albicans, Pallidus Pnecox , Moschatus of Haworth 
