a 
BARR’S GOLD MEDAL DAFFODILS, 1910. 
Culture of Daffodils in Pots or Boxes —continued. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for a period of not less than twelve weeks, after 
which first-early sorts (marked i in catalogue), such as Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Obvallaris, 
etc., may he transferred to a greenhouse or sitting-room where the night temperature does not exceed 55° 
and’ that of the day 6o°. A higher temperature should not be given if well developed blooms are wished 
for. If the pots are taken into a sitting-room they should be kept during the day in a sunny window and 
at all times should be protected from draughts and gas heat. Later-flowering Daffodils (marked in 
catalogue 2, 3, and 4) should be brought into warmth later and in succession, thus sorts marked 4 should 
not be removed from the plunging bed until February or March. No Daffodil will beat- hard forcing or 
bottom heat. After the bulbs are out of the plunging bed, give the plants as much light and air as possible, 
and once a week a very little weak liquid manure water until they come into bloom. 
Of the stronger growing sorts use three to six bulbs, according to size of bulb, for a pot measuring 45- to 6 
inches in diameter; of the small miniature kinds, such as N. Minimus, Nanus, Minor, Cyclamineus, Triandrus, 
Juncifolius, and Corbularias, use twelve to eighteen bulbs far a 4J to 6-inch pot. These small-flowered dwarf- 
growing species are most charming in pots or little shallow pans. The following may be had in bloom 
in January Minimus, Minor, Nanus, and Cyclamineus, and these may be mingled with Scilla sibirica and 
Chionodoxas, as both bloom at the same period and produce a charming contrast. For pot-culture the 
largest bulbs only of Minimus, Cyclamineus , Triandrus. and Corbularias should be used, as being collected 
when in bloom there is an uncertainty in their flowering the first season. The White IIoop Petticoat 
Narcissus should be potted in almost pure sand kept well moist, and if placed at once in a cold frame after 
potting may be had in bloom by Christmas. (Sec Rock Garden Collections of Miniature Daffodils, page 8.) 
If Daffodils are wanted in quantity for cutting early in the season, plant thickly in boxes, giving 
same culture as recommended above for growing in pots. Of the best varieties to grow for early forcing 
in boxes, the following command a first place : First early sorts— Queen of Spain, Henry Irving, 
Golden Spur, Sir Watkin, Old Double Yellow Daffodil ; Second early sorts — Emperor, Empress, Ilorsfieldn, 
P. R. Barr, Barrii conspicuus, Incomparabilis Beauty, and Stella superba. 
CULTURE OF DAFFODILS IN VASES AND BOWLS 
In Barr’s Special Fibre Mixture. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing Daffodils in fancy vases or bowls, with or without 
drainage holes, by simply using our specially prepared Fertilised Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture (ready 
for use, 3.1. 6 d. per bushel, li. per peck) ; the mixture is light, clean, and nice to handle, and remains 
sweet \ indeed, it is preferable to soil where Daffodils and other bulbs are grown in fancy bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Fibre, Shell 
and Charcoal Mixture up to within a little below the rim, and 
plant the bulbs in the same manner as with ordinary potting 
soil, just covering them ; the mixture may be shaken down 
into place after planting and lightly watered, but should not 
be pressed down tightly, or the bulbs will be forced upwards 
when root growth commences. 
After planting, either of the following plans may be 
adopted : — 
(а) The bowls or vases may be plunged outdoors on a bed 
of cocoa fibre or ashes, and covered entirely with cocoa fibre, 
leaving them thus for 8 to 12 weeks, when the bulbs will 
have made some top growth. 
( б ) Or the bowls may be plunged in a cold frame, airy 
cellar, or out-house instead of outdoors ; with this treatment, 
however, it will be necessary to occasionally give water. 
(c) A third plan is to place the bowls after potting 
in a dark or moderately dark airy place, cool but not too 
cold ; they must not be placed in a close cupboard or the bulbs 
will certainly suffer. 
In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there will be no 
need to give any attention in the way of watering, etc., as 
they will, of course, have abundance of moisture from the 
autumn rains. Where, however, the bulbs are not exposed 
to the rain, the bowls should be examined once or twice a 
week, care being taken that the fibre mixture is kept uniformly 
damp ; but for the first week or two after planting water should 
be given very sparingly, sufficient only to keep the fibre damp 
enough to encourage root action. As soon as the bulbs are 
well rooted, water should be given more freely, the fibre 
mixture being then kept quite moist ; if the mixture is allowed 
at any time to become dry, even for a day, the buds will go blind; should by any chance too much 
water have been given, the bowls may be drained by carefully tipping them on their side. If obtainable 
rain water is the best to use. 
When the bulbs have made some top growth the bowls should be removed to the sunny window of a 
sitting-room, where they will get the morning sun, or be kept in a cool greenhouse close to the glass, it 
being necessary that they should be given sufficient light and air to prevent the foliage from becoming 
drawn. Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. . 
No bottom heat should be given, and a temperature of 55 0 to 6o° by day and 50 to 55 by night is 
sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too warm a temperature. 
For Bowls and Bair's Fertilised Fibre Mixture, see page 38. 
