4 
BARR’S GOLD MEDAL DAFFODILS, 1914. 
Culture of Daffodils in Pots or Boxes — continued. 
THE pots should remain plunged for a period of not less than twelve weeks, after which 
first-early sorts (marked i in catalogue), such as Excelsior, Golden Spur, Henry Irving, King 
Alfred, Obvallaris, etc., may be transferred to a greenhouse where the night temperature does not 
exceed 55 0 and that of the day 6o°. A higher temperature should not be given if well-developed blooms 
are expected. If the pots are taken into a sitting-room they should be kept during the day in a sunny 
window and at all times protected from draughts and gas heat. Later-flowering Daffodils (marked in 
catalogue 2, 3, and 4) should be brought into warmth later and in succession, thus sorts marked 4 should 
not be removed from the plunging bed until February or March. No Daffodils will bear hard forcing 
or bottom heat. After the bulbs are out of the plunging bed, give the plants as much light and air as 
possible, and once a week a very little weak liquid manure water until they come into bloom. 
Of the stronger growing sorts use three bulbs for a 4^ to 6-inch pot ; of the miniature kinds, such as 
Minimus, Nanus, Minor, Cyclamineus, Triandrus, Juncifolius, and Bulbocodiums, use twelve to eighteen 
bulbs for a 4J to 6-inch pot. These small-flowered dwarf-growing species are most charming in pots or 
little shallow pans. The following may be had in bloom in January: — Minimus, Minor, Nanus, and 
Cyclamineus, and these may be mingled with Scilla sibirica and Chionodoxas, as both bloom at the same 
period and produce a charming contrast. For pot-culture the largest bulbs only of Minimus , Cyclamineus , 
Triandrus , and Corlmlarias should be used, as being collected when in bloom there is an uncertainty in 
their flowering the first season. The White Hoop Petticoat Narcissus should be potted in almost pure 
sand kept well moist, and if placed at once in a cold frame after potting may be had in bloom by Christmas. 
If Daffodils are wanted in quantity for cutting early in the season, plant thickly in boxes, giving 
same culture as recommended above for growing in pots. See varieties for early forcings page 6. 
CULTURE OF DAFFODILS IN BOWLS 
In Barr’s New Peat-fibre Mixture. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing Daffodils 
in fancy vases or bowls, with or without drainage holes, by 
using our Peat-fibre Mixture, which is light, clean, and nice to 
handle, and remains sweet ; it is preferable to soil where 
Daffodils and other bulbs are grown in bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Fibre Mixture up 
to within a little below the rim, and plant the bulbs in the same 
manner as with ordinary potting soil, just covering them ; the 
mixture may be shaken down into place after planting and 
lightly watered, but should not be pressed down tightly, or the 
bulbs will be forced upwards when root growth commences. 
After planting, either of the following plans may be adopted : — 
{a) The bowls or vases may be placed outdoors and covered 
entirely with Peat-fibre or cocoa-fibre, leaving them thus for 10 
to 12 weeks, when the bulbs will have made some top growth. 
(b) Or the bowls may be plunged in a cold frame, airy cellar, 
or out-house instead of outdoors ; with this treatment, however, 
it will be necessary to occasionally give water. 
'(c) A third plan is to place the bowls after potting in a dark or moderately dark airy place, cool but 
not too cold ; they must not be placed in a close cupboard or the bulbs will certainly suffer. 
In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there will be no need to give any attention in the way of 
watering, etc., as they will, of course, have abundance of moisture from the autumn rains. 
Where, however, the bulbs are not exposed to the rain, the bowls should be examined once 
or twice a week, care being taken that the fibre mixture is kept uniformly damp ; but for the first 
week or two after planting water should be given very sparingly, sufficient only to keep the fibre damp 
enough to encourage root action. As soon as the bulbs are well rooted, water should be given more 
freely, the fibre mixture being then kept quite moist ; if the mixture is allowed at any time to become dry, 
even for a day, the buds will go blind ; should by any chance too much water have been given, the bowls 
may be drained by carefully tipping them on their side. If obtainable rain water is the best to use. 
When the bulbs have made some top growth the bowls should be removed to the sunny window of a 
sitting-room, where they will get the morning sun, or be kept in a cool greenhouse close to the glass, it 
being necessary that they should be given sufficient light and air to prevent the foliage from becoming 
drawn. Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. 
No bottom heat should be given, and a temperature ot 55 0 to 6o° by day and 50° to 55 0 by night is 
sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too warm a temperature. 
Collections of Daffodils for Bowl Culture, page 6. Bowls and Peat-fibre Mixture, page 38. 
