Z BARR'S GENERAL BULB CATALOGUE, Autumn, 1916. 
A few Practical Hints on Bulb Culture. 
Culture for Spring-flowering Bulbs out of Doors. 
Proper Condition of Soil.— Plant bulbs only when the ground is in a nice friable state, and 
never when the soil is wet and sticky ; in such cases plant later when the soil is in a good friable condition. 
After digging or trenching, the ground should be allowed to settle at least ten days before planting. 
Depth to Plant. — Many amateurs commit the fault of planting bulbs too deeply (crocuses especially), 
and consequently have failures. A good general rule to follow is to cover the bulb with soil once and 
a half to twice its own depth, but not more, measuring the bulb from base to shoulder. Thus a daffodil 
bulb measuring two inches from base to shoulder should be covered with three to four inches of soil. 
Crocuses should be planted still shallower. These remarks do not apply to Erythronuuns , Tulips, and 
Snowdrops , for which special directions are given. 
Manure for Bulbs. — The ammonia in fresh stable manure is fatal to bulbs and is often the cause 
of failure in growing Tulips, etc., therefore only well-decayed stable or cow manure, or the mateiial from an 
exhausted hot-bed, should be used, and then we recommend VAPOR1TE (see page 76) being mixed with it so 
as to destroy any injurious insect life it may contain. The safest manures for all bulbs growing outdoors 
is Phytobroma or Basic Slag for heavy soils, and Crushed Bones for light and sandy soils. 
The Phytobroma should be applied at the rate of 8 cwt. per acre, or 3 oz. per squaie yard, early in 
spring, when top growth is showing ; Basic Slag or Crushed Bones should be put in the giound with 
the bulbs at the time of planting, the former at the rate of I ton per acre, or oz. per square yard, and 
the latter at the rate of 6 cwt. to the acre, or 2 oz. to the square yard, and after planting, sprinkle on the 
surface of the ground Sulphate of Potash at the rate of 2 cwt. per acre or J 0 z. per square yard. 
Where basic slag or crushed bones are used, Phytobroma may also be given at the rate of 2 oz. to the 
square yard in spring, when top growth is showing. On hot dry and sandy soils, old stable manure 
(treated with Vaporite) may with advantage be used, to act as a sponge to hold moisture in the soil , it 
should be dug in 15 to 18 inches deep, so as not to come in contact with the bulbs. True List of 
Manures will be found on pages 75 anc ^ 7 $‘ 
Top Dressing. — Where possible, we advise a top dressing to all bulbs through the winter months 
of some light material such as long straw litter, cut heather, cut furze branches, or Peat-1' hire. The 
advantage of this light covering is that it keeps the surface soil sweet by preventing the heavy winter 
rains from beating down the earth’s crust ; it also protects any early top growth. 
Lifting and Replanting.— When bulbs are lifted they should not, if possible, be replanted on the 
same ground, but where other bulbs or plants have previously been growing : thus, where Tulips have 
been growing last season, plant Narcissi this autumn, and so on. 
Culture for Spring-flowering Bulbs in Pots or Boxes. 
Time of Potting.— September and October are the best months for potting most Spring-dowering 
bulbs. 
The best compost to use is a mixture of two-thirds good fibrous loam (which should be pulled to 
pieces by the hand, and not passed through a sieve ) and one-third old decayed leaf soil, with a sprinkling 
of sharp silver sand, adding i§ lbs. of bone meal or 1 lb. of Phytobroma to every bushel of soil, which mix 
well together before using. I11 all cases the soil used should be fresh and sweet ; never pot in soil that is 
wet or sticky. Our Peal- Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture (see page 75) may also be used ; it is light 
and cleanly to handle, and is a suitable medium for growing all kinds of spring-flowering bulbs in pots or 
vases, either fur indoor decoration or for cutting. 
Sterilising Soil.— In order to destroy all injurious insect life it is a good plan to sterilise potting 
soil before adding the Phytobroma or bonemeal. Wc recommend for this purpose the Koneink Soil 
Steriliser, price 45/- (full particulars on application), or small quantities of soil can be easily steiilised in 
a sack by pouring over it a large kettle of boiling water and then spreading out the soil to dry. This 
will prevent a great deal of after trouble from worms or insects attacking the bulb roots. 
The pots should be carefully washed and allowed to dry before using ; new pots should be well 
soaked. Never pot in dirty or wet pots . 
Good drainage should be secured by placing three or more pieces of charcoal (in preference 
to broken crocks) over the drainage hole, covering the charcoal or crocks with a little rough fibre from 
the loam. When boxes are used, the slit at bottom of box should be covered with pieces of charcoal, 
and a good layer of rough fibrous loam or leaf soil placed at bottom of box to ensure perfect diainage. 
Covering the Bulbs. -The larger bulbs need not be quite covered with soil, the level of which 
should be half an inch below the rim of the pot, to allow of watering when the bulbs are in growth. 
After potting, stand the pots or boxes outside in the open, on a firm bottom such as a bed of 
gravel or a gravel path to prevent the entrance of worms. They should then be surrounded and com- 
pletely covered with Peat-Moss Fibre, Cocoa Fibre, or old decayed leaf soil (ashes are dangerous as being 
