Canneiis’ Floral Guide, 1909. 
101. SOLFATABA — Orange and carmine. 
1». Gd. 
102. SOUY. D’ANTOINE CROZT — 
Vermilion, edged golden. Is. Gd. 
103. SOUV. DE MME. CROZY— Chestnut, 
yellow margin. 2s. 
•104. SOTTVENIR DE PRESIDENT 
CARNOT— Rich red. Is. Gd. 
105. VENUS — Lovely rose piok, yellow 
border ; quite distinct. 3s. 
lOG. VICTORY — Orange-scarlet and yellow. 
3s. 
107. WILHELM BOPINGER — Scarlet 
and orange-scarlet. 2s. Gd. 
•108. WILHELM TELL — Orange and 
yellow ; fine. 8s. 
•109. WM. SAUNDERS— A grand rosy 
crimson. 3s. Gd. 
•110. W. WATSON — Deep salmon; lovely 
foliage. 3s. 
Twelve nsefnl varieties, our selection, 9s., 12s,, 15s., 24s., and 30s. 
Many other varieties supplied, list on application. 
ITALIAN OR ORCHID FLOWERING CANNAS. 
111. AUSTRALIA — Salmon-red and yellow. 
Is. Gd. 
112. BRITANNIA — Yellow and carmine. 
Is. Gd. 
113. BURBANK — Canary-yellow. Is. Gd. 
*114. EMILIA — ^Scarlet and chamois. Is. 6rf. 
115. H. WENLAND — Scarlet, edged gold. 
Is. Gd. 
IIG. HEINRICH SEIDEL — Fiery red, 
edged golden. Is. Gd. 
117. ITALIA — Orange-scarlet, margined 
yellow. Is. Gd. 
118. PARTENOPE — Dark orange and 
yellow. Is. Gd. 
• 1 1 9. PLUTO — Red and orange. 2s. 
*120. RHEA — Bright scarlet. 2s. 
121. ROMA — Yellow and salmon-red. U.Gd. 
*122. ROMAGNA — Vivid scarlet, striped 
yellow. Is. Gd. 
123. SICILIA — Chrome-yellow, salmon 
spots. Is. Gd. 
*125. UMBRIA — Vermilion, chamois stripes. 
Is. Gd. 
C4BN4/ri0NS. 
We have much pleasure in submitting to our esteemed patrons a few cultural 
notes from an eminent and most successful Carnation Specialist. They will be 
found concise and to the point. The same also applies to the cultivation of the 
Picotee. 
CULTIVATION OF THE CARNATION. 
1. Time for Planting . — From the middle of September until the end of October. In the 
spring, whenever the weather is favourable. 
2. Preparation of the Ground . — This should bo done in September, or sooner, by trenching it 
to the depth of 15 or 18 inches, and work some decayed manure in during the process. A good 
medium clay loam is best, and one rather inclined to be heavy than light ; but I have grown 
Carnations admirably on light sandy soil — but in this case some clayey loam mixed with leaf -mould 
and decayed manure was placed round the roots. 
3. Planting . — This should be done as soon as the plants are received, the ground having 
been previously prepared. Carry the box containing the plants to the bed, and plant them out as 
they are removed from the moss and papers. The plants should be six inches from the edge of the 
bed and 15 inches asunder in the rows. Plant to the first pair of leaves ; the roots should be well 
into the ground, and some fine soil worked in amongst them, pressing it down firmly. After 
planting, mulch the smrface of the soil amongst the plants with decayed manure ; this arrests 
evaporation from the soil, and acts as a protective agent in winter. 
4. Treatment after Planting.— Thet plants, if well put into the ground, do not usually require 
any support ; but slender, tall plants may require a slight stick to hold them upright, ^ny plants 
that may become loosened, or even thrown out of the ground by alternate frosts and thaws during 
winter, must be pressed in with foot when the soil is soft. 
6. Pot Culture . — All the successful exhibitors of Carnations grow a qpnsiderable number of 
plants in flower pots. The layers are potted up in the autumn in smal^ flower pots, large and small 
sixties, two in the larger size and one in the smaller. The potting soil ought not to be too heavy ; a 
good compost is formed of four parts loam, one of leaf-mould, and one of decayed manure, with 
sand to keep the material in porous condition. After potting them, place in a garden frame, kept 
rather close for a few days, and if they are potted up early it may be necessary to shade from 
bright sunshine. 
For History, Properties, and Management of Carnations and Picotees, see Dodwell’s Book. 
1*. Id., post free. 
