S. Connell & Gj-uieta. 
sportive plants ; we even had a Lord Wolseley revert to its original colour. Many varieties assume 
three totally different characters, first when half expanded, fully expanded, and going out of bloom. 
This catalogue gives and describes the general appearanco ; and it is easy for intermediate colours to 
be mistaken for other similar varieties, and blame cast on the nurseryman. It is the shape of the blooms 
and petals that must bo looked at before deciding. Of course, amongst so many hundreds, mistakes 
are always liable ; but with the care wo take it is most unlikely. AVe have plenty of room and con- 
venience, and employ the best of men and keep them always amongst this family, making them 
responsible. So familiar are they with them, they can name most of the varieties by their foliage, 
consequently we warrant all true to name. 
I think it was the year 1843 that my father took me to the first Chrysanthemum show, held in the 
Corn Exchange at Norwich, and in 1850 came to Loudon and resided opposite Forsyth’s Nursery , Stoke 
Newington ; attended for the fiist time the Stoke Newington Show held at the Manor liooms, the Crystal 
I'alace, and the monster show at the Agricultural Hall, Islington, and Mr. Salter’s A r ersailles Nursery, 
nearly all the principal shows held since, and hold the First Prize awarded to any resident on the souih 
side of the river Thames, and was the whole and sole founder of the Brixton Hill Society. I have seen 
the gradual rise of their cultivation from one bloom on a plant in 5 inch pots, to plants 10 feet across. 
Consequently I have probably had more to do with the Chrysanthemum than any other grower, which 
enables me to speak with some authority. — H. Cannell, Sen. 
Hoy/ to Grow Dwarf Plants for Grouping, and how I got the First Prize at Kingston. 
From the ‘ ‘ Gardeners' Magazine." 
It is not, perhaps, possible to say anything that is really new with reference to the cultivation of 
Chrysanthemums, and instead of attempting to do so I shall explain as briefly and clearly as I can a 
system which has been found to afford most satisfactory results. I like to take the cuttings as soon 
after the plants hare flowered as possible, or while they aro in flower, for this reason : that the cuttings 
at that time are stoutor and stronger tlmn when left for some time afterwards. There is not much 
gained otherwise by striking them so early. I have had good results from cuttings taken in February. 
They seem to come in more readily at the proper time, and if strong cuttings could be made sure of 
then it would perhaps be best to propagate the stock in that month. I attribute much to the more 
general earlier taking of the bud in later years, and, consequently, early flowering, to the desire to get 
them struck and potted on so early. Many of our best and most successful exhibitors put each 
cutting separately in a small thumb pot, and when struck shift them on without damaging a root. 
AVhen circumstances will allow it is decidely the best pian. AVhere it is not convenient to proceed as 
above, I should insert the cutting in large sixties, not more than three in each. In all cases fill the pots 
with a nice light mixture, consisting of equal parts loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand, and place in a 
cold frame or pit, and keep close aud protect from frost until struck. As soon as they are rooted, pot 
oil' separately, and employ large sixties or three-inch pots and add to the compost a little more loam 
than for the cutting pots, and a little well-rotted manure, preferably from a mushroom bed, and 
rub it through a fine sieve. Care should be taken to name every plant separately as the potting-olf 
proceeds. 
Not more than one cutting pot, unless of the same variety, should be turned out on the potting 
bench at the same time, as the varieties are likely to be mixed, and much inconvenience caused 
at flowering time. Place back in a cold box or pit close together for a time, until the roots are running 
freoly in the new soil. They should then bo opened out a bit to prevent being drawn. By the cud 
of February the pots will bo full of roots, and they will require shifting into six-inch pots. 
I always use six-inch pots, as the size smaller is hardly large enough for them. Return to frames 
again, and upon all occasions from the time that they hare taken root admit plenty of air whenever 
the weather will allow, except for a few days after they have beon shifted, when they should bo 
sprinkled and kept a little closer. On fine days draw the lights entirely oil’, and so gradually 
harden them that they can be put out altogether at the earliest moment the weather will allow. 
It is not safe in any season to put them out altogether until the first or second week in April. 1 have 
more than once had to take them back to the pit again when we have removod them from under glass 
in March and run the risk of having them cut off by frost. 
AVhen taken outside the plants should be placed in an open but sheltered place on a good bed 
of coal-ashes. They should not be allowed to become dry at any time, and after they havo filled their 
pots with roots a little soot-water or weak liquid manure from a tank will not only not do them any 
harm, but will strengthen and benefit them. It is at this time, say the end of May or beginning of 
June, that Chrysanthemums require little attention and fore-thought, especially if the cultivator 
requires some dwarf plants for the decoration of a conservatory. The plants should now be about 
eighteen to thirty inches high, according to the variety, and many of them with tho second break .just 
started. Between tho 1st and 6th of June I should cut down the plants of the Princess of Tech, Hero of 
Stoke Newington, Jar dim dcs Plantes, and all the late-flowering varieties, and should continuo to cut a 
few down every ether day till the 16 th or 20th of the month. I cut down last year into the hard wood at 
C 37 ] 
