S’. £kqr\ell & $or\g’ Sloi‘al G^uide. 
w, 
heights ranging from six inches to twelve inches from the surface, and have no reason to he dissatisfied 
with the result. There is one thing I should say with reference to cutting down. It made me a little later 
than I anticipated. The cutting down throws them back more, as they are longer breaking from the 
hard than from the soft wood. Consequently, for exhibition purposes, you want your bud to appear by 
the first week or the middle of September to obtain a good substantial flower. For home display it does 
not matter much ; in fact, it is much better and more serviceable to leave them a little late than to be 
too early. Another thing 1 must explain. I did not commence to cut down till the 16th of June 
that year, and finding it too late, I have advised an earlier date, which would bring the flowering time 
about right. For the production of blooms for exhibition purposes in a cut state, 1 should certainly not 
recommend the cutting-down system, but only a slight cutting back of the top of plants whilst in 6-inch 
pots of Mrs. George Bundle, Prince Alfred , Prince of IVtdes, Beverley, and other early-flowering varie- 
ties, if I thought they were making their first breaks too soon, so as to throw them back a week or so, to 
bring them in bloom with the others. Those which arc cut down close should be stood by themselves 
and have the water withheld for a time from the roots, and receive a slight sprinkling overhead with a 
watering can. After they have started into growth thin out the young shoots, leaving from three to 
six of tlie strongest breaks. After the latter have attained a length of about six inches give the final 
shift, which may be into nine or ten inch pots. The cultivator will find that those which have not been 
cut down will be ready for their final shift before the others. Ten-inch pots are quite large enough, 
and 1 would mention that I am not such an advocate for large pots now as 1 was a few years since. 
The compost I should recommend for this and the previous shift is one formed with about two- 
thirds good yellow loam or top spit of a pasture that has been laid up and well rotted and one-third of 
well-rotted cow-dung, leaf-mould, and good sharp sand in about equal proportions. If sifted at all, it 
should be through a very coarse sieve, and only for the purpose of mixing the compost and to ensure a 
more thorough search for grubs, worms, &e., that may be in the soil. The pots and crocks should be 
clean and the drainage be prepared by laying one large piece of crock over the bottom and a layer of 
smaller ones in the usual way. It is, however, far better to put a few small crocks in the bottom and 
then lay a few broken half-inch bones or some horn shavings over them. The bones and horn shavings 
form excellent food for strong roots that are usually found among the drainage. In the final shift the 
ball should be kept rather low to allow of a top dressing later on after they have set their buds. Press 
the soil down rather firm with a thick lath or stick and stand the plants in an open position on planks, 
boards, or anything available, to prevent their rooting through, or the worms finding their way into 
the pots. A favourite place to stand them is beside a gravel path in the kitchen garden, and a 
capital place it is, provided it is a little sheltered from the high winds that usually are so destructive 
to them in September and October. In this position they have the full benefit of the light and air, 
so beneficial to them for the proper maturation of the wood, so necessary for the production of sound 
buds and good shaped flowers. The tall examples should be staked~as soon as potted, and there is no 
better way of supporting them than the usual way of driving in a good stout stake or post and strain- 
ing a wire along to which to tie all the sticks. They should be well looked after and supported with 
a tie as fast as they make their growth. Neglect in this respect has frequently to be paid dearly for 
by the loss of shoots. The plants that I shall term the low “cut downs ” will not require the stake 
and wire, but as their breaks become strong they will want tying out with some nice hazel or other 
3tick about three feet high, shaping the plants according to the number of shoots. 
I should take (t.e., secure) the buds of the “ cut downs ” as soon as they make their appearance, which 
in ordinary seasons will be about the end of August, and then commence giving liquid manure. House 
sewage is a capital liquid for Chrysanthemums, but when a liquid has to be made I should prepare it 
by putting one bushel of cow-manure, half a bushel of fowl-dung, and half a bushel of soot in a coarse 
hemp bag, and then throw it into a tank or large tub of water. The bag should be well poked about 
with a stick to get the goodness out of the manure without having the sediment. If I had no animal 
manure I should recommend Clay’s Fertilizer as a top dressing. It may be mixed with the soil in 
potting in the proportion of a six-inch potful to a bushel of soil. Guano- water may be prepared in the 
proportion of a thumb potful to a three gallon can of water, but Clay’s Fertilizer is the safest of the 
artificial manures. If any buds make their appearance on the tall plants at the end of July or the 
beginning of August I certainly should not take them, but should cut the shoot back a leaf or two to 
a good strong break. I have been tempted many times to leave early buds, but they are, to say the 
least, promising at first, but most disappointing in the end ; for after watching their swelling up, and 
anticipating a fine flower, we often find them refuse to open kindly. From the middle of August to 
the middle of September is a good time for them to show their buds, and if the plants are healthy, 
and have sound wood and good foliage, feed them liberally but safely, and good results will follow. 
From the 8th to the lltli October is a good time foi housing, and a cool Peach house or vinery is the 
best place for them. Animal manure is rather objectionable to use in a conservatory or greenhouse 
on account of the smell. 1 therefore generally use artificial manure as a top dressing, and then add a 
little top dressing of loam and manure from an exhausted mushroom bed or cow-manure. I should 
not use artificial heat for them at flowering time unless I was obliged, to keep out damp or fog. Light 
and air are the proper elements to bring incurved blooms out in their true colour and character. The 
-[ '88 ] 
