G 
H. CANNELL & SONS’ LIST OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
is indispensable, and from these strong shoots at the time theyjare formed all side growth must be 
pinched oil' to throw all strength into 2 or 3 buds. No insect or mildew must be* allowed to touch it. 
About the middle or end of August, if closely watched, in the axle of the shoot a small bud will bo 
observed, and if the season is late, and the show early, it will be wise to nip out all side shoots gradu- 
ally and force all the growth into those buds ; thus, if monster blooms are desired, one should be left 
on each shoot of the large-flowering kinds, two or even more on the hybrid and pompons. Select! 
those favourably situated for display, and then remove the others as soon as you can get at them with a 
penknife or a pair of fine-pointed scissors. The sooner the wood buds are removed after the flower 
buds are formed, the finer those retained will become. As the flowers expand or show colour, the 
supply of manure water must be decreased in strength and quantity ; the plants must not on any 
account know the want of water, as the loss of supply for a single day will undo the work of the whole 
season. The best place to bloom the Chrysanthemum is in a light and airy greenhouse. The plants 
should be taken in upon the approach of frost ; but beyond protecting them from it or cold cutting 
winds, should be kept as cool as possible through their blooming, which will prolong the season as 
well as add to the beauty of the flowers. The Chrysanthemum is not much affected by disease ; 
sometimes the mildew may attack it and also the green fly and thrips. The latter may be removed by 
fumigation, and the former by dusting with sulphur, brown or black is the best and cheapest. 
Follow these directions, and fine flowers must be the result, such as are seldom seen. To grow 
Standards, a strong offset with a good root must be got early in the season, and the side eyes at the 
base of each leaf must be taken out, until it attains the required height, then bent down, and tlio 
side shoot trained to a wire frame 12 inches in diameter ; should any of the petals become loose and 
disarranged or otherwise different from the engraving, they must be placed gently in position by 
means of a pair of ivory or wood tweezers, and the flowers on the plant should be made perfect and 
like those for cut blooms. 
ARRANGING PETALS IN CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION 
(CALLED DRESSING). 
Those who dread and despair of the trouble, and fancy they cannot learn, will rail against the practice 
and its fairness, yet it has become the general and a chief merit that all incurved flowers should be 
presented as even and as regular in shape and size, and as widely distinct in colour as possible — shape, 
see engraving. Some blooms do not require manipulation such as Mrs. Bundle and her sports, Mr. 
G. Gleivny and Mrs. Dixm, Princess of IValcs and her sport, Mrs. Hcalc , and several others, but to get 
24 distinct varieties there is occasionally some deformity m petals, and a little irregularity, occasionally 
reflexed, and when so, one little bend with the tweezers guides it into the shape required. It some- 
times occurs more petals are produced than required, or a docayed one makes the whole confused 
or dirty, and when so, surely there can be no more harm removing them than you would a 
troublesome tooth or combing and blushing one’s hair, for the process is virtually the same, and 
so long as there is no addition to the flower, surely a little grooming in flowers may bo bestowed, 
which is done to every well harnessed horse. This little process, called dressing, has been so 
mystified as to appear nnleamable, whereas it can be pretty well mastered in a day ; and if a cultivator 
has any pluck and brain of his own, he will become efficient in a season. The first lesson is to clip 
off a strip of paper 3 inches long ,} nude, knife in hand, pass the thumb on one side of it and the 
knife on it tightly and bring it upwards, and three strokes will give you the incurve required ; then 
practice on a rough old bloom, first cupping and plugging up the flowers, pulling out the green eye 
or centre, as per engraving, to the required degree of tightness to bring the petals up so as to fill in the 
centre, and nearly all the dressing is done that is required. Some varieties, to get their centre high 
or well up, require to have their flowers suspended when developing their blooms ; flat flowers are 
very objectionable, and if this regulating and the tact and skill in growing flowers to nearly approach 
perfection at our exhibitions is not adopted, many w'ould say, “I have flowers in my back yard as 
good as those ; I shall never care to see another show.” In fact, there is little or no beauty in a loose 
incurved flower. The strong growth of Chrysanthemums is of the first importance, and without 
blooms are full size none can be said to be good ; but with vigorous growth even some of the old 
inferior varieties come splendid, and often cause a sensation, and give satisfaction under the improved 
system of cultivation. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS, SUPPOSED WRONG TO NAME. 
There always will be this complaint going on even at large shows, and after judges have finished 
you will hear the same thing, and sometimes correctly so ; judges are not generally well versed in 
varieties, more especially the Japanese, and how can it be expected with so many introduced fresh 
every year ? And again, we have had three distinct-coloured flowers on the same plant ; they are very 
sportive plants ; we even had a Lord Wolscley revert to its original colour. Many varieties assume 
• three totally different characters, first when half expanded, fully expanded, and going out of bloom. 
This catalogue gives and describes the general appearance ; and it is easy for intermediate colours to 
be mistaken for other similar varieties, and blame cast on the nurseryman. It is the shape of the blooms 
and petals that must be looked at before deciding. Of course, amongst so many hundreds, mistakes 
