H. CANNELL & SONS’ LIST OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
arc always liable ; but with the care we take it is most unlikely. We have plenty of room and eon- 
vemence, and employ the best of men and keep them always amongst this family, making them 
responsible. So familiar are they with them, they can name most of the varieties by their foliage 
and everv one by their flowers, consequently we warrant all true to name. 
n * was year 1843 that my father took me to the first Chrysanthemum show, held in the 
Corn Exchange at Norwich, and in 1850 came to London and resided opposite Forsyth’s Nursery Stoke 
IS ewington ; attended for the first time the Stoke Newington Show held at the Manor Rooms, the Crystal 
1 alace, and the monster show at the Agricultural Hall, Islington, and Mr. Salter’s Versailles Nursery, 
nearly all the principal shows held since, and hold the First Prize awarded to any resident on the south 
side of the river Thames, and was the whole and sole founder of the Brixton Hill Society. I have seen 
the gradual rise of their cultivation from one bloom on a plant in 5 inch pots, to plants 10 feet across. 
Consequently I have probably had more to do with the Chrysanthemum than any other grower, which 
enables me to speak with some authority.— H. Cannell, Sen. 
How to Grow Dwarf Plants for Grouping, and how the First Prize was got at Kingston. 
From the “ Gardeners’ Magazine.” 
It is not, perhaps, possible to say anything that is really new with reference to the cultivation of 
Chrysanthemums, and instead of attempting to do so I shall explain as briefly and clearly as I can a 
system which has been found to afford most satisfactory results. I like to take the cuttings as soon 
after the plants have flowered as possible, or while they are in flower, for this reason : that the cuttings 
at that time are stouter and stronger than when left for some time afterwards. There is not much 
gained otherwise by striking them so early. I have had good results from cuttings taken in February. 
They seem to come in more readily at the proper time, and if strong cuttings could be made sure of 
then it would perhaps be best to propagate the stock in that month. I attribute much to the moro 
general earlier taking of the bud in later years, and, consequently, early flowering, to the desire to get 
them struck and potted on so early. Many of our best and most successful exhibitors put each 
cutting separately in a small thumb pot, and when struck shift them on without damaging a root. 
When circumstances will allow it is decidely the best plan. Where it is not convenient to proceed as 
above, I should insert the cutting in large sixties, not more than three in each. In all cases fill the pots 
with a nice light mixture, consisting of equal parts loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand, and place in a 
cold frame or pit, and keep close and protect from frost until struck. As soon as they are rooted, pot 
oil separately, and employ largo sixties or three-inch pots and add to the compost a little more loam 
than, for the cutting pots, and a little well-rotted manure, preferably from a mushroom bed, and 
rub it through a fine sieve. Care [should be taken to name every plant separately as the potting-off 
pi oceecis. 
Not more tlian one cutting pot, unless of the same variety, should be turned out on the potting 
bench at the same time, as the varieties are likely to he mixed, and much inconvenience causeS 
at flowering time. Place back in a cold box or pit close together for a time, until the roots are running 
freely in the new soil. They should then be opened out a bit to prevent being drawn. By the end 
of February the pots will be full of roots, and they will require shifting into six-inch pots. 
I always use six-inch pots, as the size smaller is hardly large enough for them. Return to frames 
again, and upon all occasions from the time that they have taken root admit plenty of air whenever 
the weather will allow, except for a few days after they have been shifted, when they should bo 
sprinkled and kept a little closer. On fine days draw the lights entirely off, and so gradually 
harden them that they can be put out altogether at the earliest moment the weather will allow, 
ft is not safe in any season to put them out altogether until the first or second week in April. I have 
moro than once had to take them back to the pit again when wo have removed them from under glass 
in March and run the risk of having them cut off by frost. 
When taken outside the plants should be placed in an open but sheltered place on a good bed 
of coal-ashes. They should not be allowed to become dry at any time, and after they have filled their 
pots with roots a little soot-water or weak liquid manure from a tank will not only not do them any 
harm, but will strengthen and benefit them. It is at this time, say the end of May or beginning of 
June, that Chrysanthemums require little attention and fore-thought, especially if the cultivator 
requires some dwarf plants for the decoration of a conservatory. The plants should now be about 
eighteen to thirty inches high, according to the variety, and many of them with the second break just 
started. Between the 1st and 6tli of June I should cut down the plants of the Princess of Tech, Hero of 
Stoke Newington , Jardin des Plantes , and all the late-flowering varieties, and should continue to cut a 
few down every other day till the 16th or 20tli of the month. 1 cut down last year into the hard wood at 
heights ranging from six inches to twelve inches from the surface, and have no reason to be dissatisfied 
with the result. There is one thing I should say with reference to cutting down. It made me a little later 
than I anticipated. The cutting down throws them back more, as they are longer breaking from the 
hard than from the soft wood. Consequently, for exhibition purposes, you want your bud to appear by 
the first week or the middle of September to obtain a good substantial flower. For home display it does 
not matter much ; in fact, it is much better and more serviceable to have them a little late than to be 
too early. Another thing I must explain. I did not commence to cut down till the 16th of June 
that year, and finding it too late, I have advised an earlier date, which would bring the flowering time 
