8 
H. CANNELL & SONS’ LIST OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
about right. For the production of blooms for exhibition purposes in a cut state, I should certainly not 
recommend the cutting-down system, but only a slight cutting back of the top of plants whilst in 6-inch 
pots of Mrs. George Rundle, Prince Alfred, Prince of Wales, Beverley, and other early-flowering varie- 
ties, if I thought they were making their first breaks too soon, so as to throw them back a week or so, to 
bring them in bloom with the othors. Those which are cut down close should be stood by themselves 
and have the water withheld for a time from the roots, and receive a slight sprinkling overhead with a 
waterin'* can. After they have started into growth thin out the young shoots, leaving from three to 
six of the strongest breaks. After the latter have attained a length of about six inches give the final 
shift which may be into nine or ten inch pots. The cultivator will find that those which have not been 
cut down will be ready for their final shift before the others. Ten-incli pots are quite large enough, 
and I would mention that 1 am not such an advocate for large pots now as I was a few years since. 
The compost I should recommend for this and the previous shift is one formed with about two- 
thirds good yellow loam or top spit of a pasture that lias been laid up and well rotted and one-third ot 
well-rotted cow-dung, leaf-mould, and good sharp sand in about equal proportions. It silted at all, it 
should be through a very coarse sieve, and only for the purpose of mixing the compost and to ensure a 
more thorough search for grubs, worms, &c., that may be in the soil. The pots and crocks should be 
dean and the drainage be prepared by laying one large piece of crock over the bottom and a layer ot 
smaller ones in the usual way. It is, however, far better to put a few small crocks in the bottom and. 
then lay a few broken half-inch bones or some horn shavings over them. The banes and horn shavings 
form excellent food for strong roots that aro usually found among the drainage. In the filial shift the 
hall should be kept rather low to allow of a top dressing later on after they have set their buds, t ress 
the soil down rather firm with a thick lath or stick and stand the plants in an open position on planks, 
boards or anything available, to prevent their rooting through, or 1 he worms finding tlieir way into 
the pots. A favourite place to stand them is beside a gravel path in the kitchen garden, and a 
capital piace it is, provided it is a little sheltered from the high winds that usually are so destructive 
to them ill September and October. In this position they have the full benefit of the light and air, 
so beneficial to them for the proper maturation of the wood, so necessary for the production of sound 
buds and good shaped flowers. The tall examples should be staked as soon as potted, and there is no 
better wav of supporting them than tlio usual way of driving in a good stout stake or post and strain- 
in" a wire along to which to tie all the sticks. They should be well looked alter and supported with 
a tie as fast as they make their growth. Neglect in this respect has frequently to be paid dearly for 
bv the loss of shoots. The plants that I shall term the low “cut downs will not require the stake 
and wire, but as their breaks become strong they will want tying out with some nice hazel or other 
stick about tlirco feet liigh, shaping the plants according to the number of shoots. 
1 should take (i.c., secure) the buds of the “ cut downs” as soon as they make their appearance, which 
in ordinary seasons will be about the end of August, and then commence giving liquid manure. House 
sewa«e is a capital liquid for Chrysanthemums, but when a liquid has to be made I should prepare it 
bv putting one bushel of cow-manure, half a bushel of fowl-dung, and half a bushel of soot in a coarse 
hemp bag? and then throw it into a tank or large tub of water. The bag should be well poked about 
with a stick to get the goodness out of the manure without having the sediment. If 1 had no animal 
manure I should recommend Clay’s Fertilizer as a top dressing. It may be mixed with the soil m 
potting in the proportion of a six-inch potful to a bushel of soil. Guano-water may be prepared m the 
proportion of a thumb potful to a three gallon can of water, but Clay s Fertilizer is the safest of the 
artificial manures. If any buds make their appearance on the ball plants at the end ot July or the 
be"inning of August 1 certainly should not take them, but should cut the shoot back a leaf or two to 
a °ood strong break. 1 have been tempted many times to leave early buds, but they are, to say the 
least, promising at first, but most disappointing in the end ; for after watching their swelling up, and 
anticipating a fine flower, we often find them refuse to open kindly. From the middle of August to 
the middle of September is a good time for them to show their buds, and if the plants are healthy, 
and have sound wood and good foliage, feed them liberally but safely, and good results will follow. 
From the 8tli to the lltli October is a good time foi housing, and a cool Peach house orvmeryis the 
best place for them. Animal manure is rather objectionable to use in a conservatory or greenhouse 
on account of the smell. 1 therefore generally use artificial manure as a top dressing, and then add a 
little top dressing of loam and manure from an exhausted mushroom bed or cow-manure, l should 
not use artificial heat for them at flowering time unless I was obliged, to keep out damp or log. Light 
and air are the proper elements to bring incurved blooms out .in their true colour and character, lhe 
Japanese varieties will stand more heat without being materially injured — in fact, some ot them almost 
1 • .1 • 1 . . -1* . 1ti.il.. 1. L kninn 1 n IXVfl (lOI'd lllirlQ 
require the assistance of a little heat to bring out the large hard buds. 
The cutting-do\vn system is engaging considerable attention this year amongst 
diversity of c 
growers, and much 
: opinion prevails regarding the practice. It certainly is quite opposite to previous practice, 
but I am perfectly satisfied with the result, for by its aid I attained the object at which I aimed. It 
I had not adopted it I certainly should not have had such a display in the conservatory under my 
charge as I now have. The “cut downs” arc far less trouble than tall plants, and give less cause for 
anxiety in windy weather ; but, as already stated, it is necessary to grow some tall plants even, tor 
grouping, to raise up the bank of flowers to the required height. But for substance and heavy blooms 
for the exhibition board only there is nothing like the old system, provided you work your buds rightly 
and have them at the proper season. Early buds, as a rule, are too strong and coarse, and later buds 
swell more freely and kindly, and bring the best shaped flowers.— C. Orchard, Kingston-on- 1 names. 
