46 
^anneH ^on6' J^utumn '€ata{ogue. 
two- or three feet below the roots of the trees ; if this is neglected, stunted growth and parasite-moss- 
bound trees are sure to he the result. To have trees do well, trench and break up the soil deeply, and 
do it so that the strata of soil is left almost exactly as when you began to move it; afterwards 
keep the surface free from weeds, and as many fowls as you like may be allowed to run about beneath 
the trees. I know several orchards that were unfruitful until this was adopted. As the insects fall 
the fowls eat them, and also secure them when ascending the stems. If you have choice of aspect for 
orchards, choose high ground sloping south-east, so that the first peep of the morning sun commences 
gently to dispel the icy dew which occasionally occurs in early spring when the fruit trusses are in 
flower, and so save pollen on the stamens and preserve the pistil. 
How to Plant and How Not to Plant Fruit Trees. 
The proper depth and way of planting young fruit trees is all important, as will be seen by 
the three engravings. No. 3 shows a tree with all its roots crammed unnaturally into a small round 
hole, 6 or 12 inches too deep, so that its death is only a matter of two or three years, and no fruit. 
No. 2 fares a little better, with its stems and roots 4 or 6 inches too high. No. 1 is the correct 
method of planting, the roots being properly spread out, and the surface good soil well firmed 
down, leaving it round about the stem rather above the natural level to allow for when settled, the 
roots will be covered with soil to a depth of 4 or 5 inches ; the tree must then be securely 
staked. 
It is almost a set rule that if an important root becomes injured or mutilated in the least 
by the tine of the fork going through, to cut it off, making a clean cut (this is thought to be so 
important) right up to the hard wood, and often a tree when placed on its bed to be planted has 
little else but three or four prong-like roots. This cutting is entirely wrong ; instead, lay the 
poor injured root — as a doctor would a man’s leg broken in two places — with the greatest care, 
for if the parts only hang together with a bit of skin or bark they will soon heal and grow and 
become an important advantage ; therefore don’t cut the poor root. Doctors have discontinued using 
the knife to a surprising extent compared with what they formerly did, only resorting to it when a full 
sense of understanding makes it necessary to sever the part, and never otherwise. 
Next and most important is never to crave for rank, vigorous trees ; those with moderate clean 
growth, with what are called spurs, showing fruit buds, planted in richer soil than that which the trees 
have been grown in, are certainly much to be preferred. 
It is not often now-a-days, from the stock we graft on, particularly Apples, that fruit trees fail to 
bear fruit through too luxuriant growth ; if so, sever the roots a reasonably short distance from the stem 
half way round, and do the other half the following autumn ; this in a good deep soil generally brings 
about a fruitful condition. 
